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  1. How not to retrofit a hatch: Installation

    The new Lewmar hatch fit into the new opening without much fuss. Next, we drill seventeen holes for the mounting screws. The directions say that the screws on the hinge-side must be through-bolted, while the other sides can be screwed into the deck, but I would rather through-bolt all of them. Here, the inner riser comes into focus again, as its diagonal curving sides fall in the path of most of the screw holes. I was getting a little shell-shocked at this point. You probably wouldn't believe ...
  2. How not to retrofit a hatch: Destruction

    Here's where we learn what's inside the hatch structure. Removal of the wood trim reveals a fairly uneven gap, with unfriendly angles, between the deck piece and the liner piece. Apparently both pieces were made with flanges that were supposed to line up, but some grinding had to be done to make the original hatch fit.
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    To make the new hatch fit, we need to remove the inner lip to create a flat platform, widen the fore-aft dimension of the opening ...

    Updated 09-23-2018 at 01:32 PM by toddster

  3. How not to retrofit a hatch: Prelude

    Here I replace the old Ericson factory wooden box hatch with a new Lewmar #50 medium-profile hatch that I bought the last time they were on sale at WM. The complexity of this fiasco probably cannot be conveyed adequately in the three-photo limit. If it is to have any value, it would be in revealing what the inside of the structure looks like, for those who are tempted to try this in the future, on boats of similar vintage. So, this looks like another of those multi-part posts. Spoiler: it all ...

    Updated 09-21-2018 at 11:52 AM by toddster

  4. Marine Survey Check List

    I have known several surveyors over the decades. They answer my ill-informed questions with patience, and I believe that they could have been teachers had they chosen it.
    I was looking thru the web site for one of those folks, and thought that others here might like to consider (print out...) the list she uses as a general guide.
    It is a long list. A survey usually takes a full work day, and after that a written report with a lot of digital pix is prepared and conveyed to the purchaser ...

    Updated 09-21-2018 at 12:54 PM by Loren Beach

  5. Ericson 38--Varnish, Again

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    I've had oiled teak and varnished teak, and in the end, for me at least, the maintenance comes out the same. Here in SoCal, oiling--after cleaning and bleaching, is best done every three months. Varnish--just two maintenance coats over a sound base--is every 18 months or so. Both are pleasing to my eye, and the periodic effort is much reduced by memories of letting wood go too long, and having to start over.

    In many years of varnishing I ...

    Updated 11-14-2018 at 11:14 AM by Christian Williams

    Maintenance and Mechanical
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