Blog Comments

  1. Christian Williams's Avatar
    The other day things got breezy, and I found that while reefing the genoa and cranking the winches my knee dislodged the jump seat vertically several times. So I have added a second copper pipe clamp to hold it down. Sometimes the forces are not simple gravity.
  2. toddster's Avatar
    Thanks. It seems like the exact meaning of the serial number may remain a mystery. Various sources put the production dates of the 3040 as 1974 - 1981. (Or sometimes 1976 - 1981). If they were on #334 in 1979, I'm not sure how they ever got to #749. A few units produced after that were apparently sold as "Stayer" brand from England.

    I got a lot of technical and comparative information about these Windvanes from "Self-Steering Under Sail" by Peter Förthmann. (I'd forgotten that he mentions the rudder angle, pondered above, was to provide yaw-damping.) Just now, when I was looking for the link, I found this other more colorful version of the history.

    The boat is still in the farmyard. Windvane untested. Contingencies and non-boating matters competing for my time and cash. I did leave the whole thing mounted for several weeks, through some fairly spirited weather. With the control lines unattached, it freely moved with the wind. IDK why one would ever do this normally, but I wanted to put the mechanism to a bit of test. The only adverse thing that happened was that the little stainless ball-fitting at the end of the push-rod unscrewed itself and disconnected. Not difficult to replace, in the workshop, but it would be a royal pain to try to do that while hanging over the end of the transom at sea. But I suppose there would be no reason for that to ever happen in actual use - the control lines would prevent the vane from rotating repeatedly through 360°.
  3. ignacio's Avatar
    A little more info: The main housing on my Sailomat 3040 has number 334 stamped on it, and the sales and installation correspondence I have are all dated April and May 1979. The stamp itself looks uniformly applied.
    Updated 06-19-2019 at 02:51 PM by ignacio
  4. TKBLACK's Avatar
    Thank you Toddster for sharing this detailed info! (Your You Tube videos r great). This is an inspirational and practical solution in several ways.
    Karin on Achates. 1993 PSE 34
    Updated 06-13-2019 at 03:11 PM by TKBLACK
  5. Christian Williams's Avatar
    Here's the followup thread: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexc...r-a-Solid-Vang

    It's true that Blog comments don't have the visibility of a forum posting, where subscribers get an email notification of new messages. But questions are fine in response to Blog entries.
    Updated 06-15-2019 at 03:28 PM by Christian Williams
  6. Roger Janeway's Avatar
    I'm not sure I'm allowed to ask questions in the comment section of a blog, but here goes:

    How does one get inside the boom (Kenyon 11' E section) to replace the block around which the topping lift control line runs before it emerges from the side of the boom? Mine seems recently to have jammed, so I can't let the boom down. Do you attach mouselines, cut the control line, and pull the block out the back of the boom to replace it, then try to get it back into place somehow? Still, I can't figure out where the line that goes around the block attaches inside the boom and how I would reattach it after cutting it free.

    The problem of fixing this --- which I could easily imagine costing $400 or more if a rigger does it --- is inspiring me to think about a solid vang, like a a Garhauer RV 16-1 (the size for my little boat), which is supposedly just under $400. But like you, I like my block-and-tackle vang, which I can control by standing in the companionway, after a local rigger (Carl Sarnoff) brilliantly suggested simply installing it backwards.
  7. Kenneth K's Avatar
    Your's didn't come out too bad, either, as I remember....
  8. Geoff W.'s Avatar
    Christian, did you use the 150A Bus Bar from Blue Seas? I see there is that one, and one that goes up to 600A... I bought the 150A one and if there aren't issues on your boat with it, that's good for me.
  9. bigd14's Avatar
    Nice work! I like the individually fused circuits too, makes me wish I had thought about that when I redid my panel.
  10. Kenneth K's Avatar
    Because of where the panel is located, something is always going to get wet. I don't know if wet gauges is better or worse than wet switches. Probably better. The visibility of the gauges, though is definitely better lower.
  11. Geoff W.'s Avatar
    This is awesome, Ken. The "Flip it upside down" thing truly is a revelation.
  12. footrope's Avatar
    I especially like the individual fusing and the addition of the ACC position. I think my panel power is fused at the start battery with something like a 30 amp fuse. I need to check on that.

    I am about to close up my salon overhead to get ready to do some sailing later this month. We're planning to go through the Narrrows and into the south sound at some time. We'll let you know.

    I have verified my glow plugs are controlled through a relay. And I replaced my tach successfully. In the meantime, it is time for another beer ...
  13. Kenneth K's Avatar
    Thanks Craig.

    I think the day I met you and Ellen down in the harbor I had just started acquiring parts, and was still gathering ideas for this job. That was back in March. Call it another successful weekend boat project-- in 6 weeks late and $300 over budget.

    That probably means it's time for another beer.
    Updated 06-02-2019 at 06:47 PM by Kenneth K
  14. footrope's Avatar
    Nice job, Ken. Well thought out and well executed.
  15. Kenneth K's Avatar
    Yes. Good catch.

    The spray cover IS upside-down because the buttons are now at the top of the panel. The old cover (shown above) is scratched, faded, and (I've always thought) a little flimsy at 1/8" thick. I had a new plexi cover cut at a local plastic shop. It's 3/16 thick and in 3 pieces: the T-shaped piece you mentioned, a rectangular cover that will be hinged above to cover the square openings, and a spacer ring that goes beneath, around the top and side edges of the black panel. The spacer ring is open at the bottom to allow a full-length drain to any water that gets behid the cover.
    Updated 06-01-2019 at 11:22 AM by Kenneth K
  16. Loren Beach's Avatar
    One puzzlement- your clear spray cover is mounted upside down and looks like it will fill with water.
    (?)
  17. toddster's Avatar
    Wow, those riggers get plumbers wages, it appears. Are there such things as “scab” riggers?

    I neglected to mention it in the written instructions and sure enough, the WM riggers recreated my “pigtail clamped on the backstay” topping lift. Itemized on the bill for $34. Fortunately, they used a screw-on clamp that can be easily discarded, instead of a crimp-on like the old one. Pretty useless except to secure the boom at anchor. And nobody ever forgets to release that pigtail before setting sail.

    Some PO added a “proper” topping lift by drilling a hole in the masthead to accept the pin of a small shackle and running 1/8” line down to a tiny block at the end of the boom, then up to a cleat near the reefing lines. Probably cost $12 but works. But it makes the boom lie sideways at rest. I suppose I should clean that up.
  18. fscott007's Avatar
    Just started mine, finished demo yesterday. Much of it came out in pieces. If I knew how to attach pictures on the site, I would. The structural grid is amazing. Using 1/2" plywood epoxies, the 3/8" teak and Holly on top.
  19. Loren Beach's Avatar
    Your decision and research all makes perfect sense, especially for solo sailing.
    For sure, when we lower our main, the halyard *needs* to be shackled to the end of our boom and then socked up tight so the boom will not wander back n forth as the springs compress in our rod vang.

    I would prefer to never go back to a boom topping lift line, but my tame version of sailing is as far from yours as one can get 'without a passport'... !
    Updated 05-26-2019 at 12:55 PM by Loren Beach
  20. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Christian Williams
    Very good. As a point of information, we're not supposed to paint the keel bolts, nuts and washers. The stainless needs oxygen, and deprivation makes corrosion.

    I painted mine too, then thought better of it. It was not too difficult to isolate the stainless with painters tape, then brush on paint remover. Messy, yes, but a bilge repaint wasn't required. Final bolts cleanup with Dremel and awkward sanding.

    The job was less onerous that I expected. Not critical, probably, at least in the short term. But many old boats already have some (acceptable, inevitable) pitting of the keel bolts, so why encourage more.
    Good point Christian. I probably got a little carried away with the paint brush.
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