Blog Comments

  1. Kenneth K's Avatar
    Wonderful. Thank you.
  2. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth K
    Looks great.

    Where did you get the plastic covers for the opening ports?
    Hi Kenneth, the portlight rain shades are from Seaworthy Goods www. http://seaworthygoods.com/

    They help keep most of the rain from pooling on the portlight surrounds and allow us to keep the portlights upon most of the time, we still get some rain in when it bounces off the deck.

    Cheers,
    Mike
  3. Kenneth K's Avatar
    Looks great.

    Where did you get the plastic covers for the opening ports?
  4. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by nquigley
    Nice job!
    BTW, I read recently that one should tie the bitter end of anchor rode to the u-bolt with a few lengths of lightweight line - instead of directly to the u-bolt. The thinking being that, in an emergency (anchor is stuck in bottom and one must get away from the shore quickly) one wants to cut the rode free quickly, while possibly under load (tying a float to the rode first so you can find it later).
    Sorry for the slow reply. The picture the chain on the U bolt was not the final setup. I have a rope/line that is secured to the U bolt and the chain bitter end. If this line ever emerges from the hawsepipe it will allow me to cut the 275ft of chain away.
  5. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Christian Williams
    I'm concerned about the chain in the V-berth locker long term.

    Salt water, mud, weed. It's hard to get it all off even with a chain hose. Tends to smell.

    Any chance for a plastic bucket or other removable chain-capture device?
    Good idea. When I haul out this winter I'll drop the chain out and see how things look overall. Some type of plastic liner may be the thing to install.
  6. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Christian Williams
    In the photo the topping lift is still on the end of the boom. Will you now be able to remove it?
    Hi Christian, that's a good question and I should have mentioned why I didn't remove it. I have a Dutchman flaking system on my mainsail and the topping lift holds the filament lines that are weaved through the mainsail. One of the photos shows the mainsail cover and the filament lines.

    My boat came with a Dutchman system and I decided to stick with it when I ordered my new Mack Sails mainsail. It just works so easy when I drop the mainsail, it flakes very nicely onto the boom.

    Cheers,
    Mike
  7. Christian Williams's Avatar
    In the photo the topping lift is still on the end of the boom. Will you now be able to remove it?
  8. Christian Williams's Avatar
    I'm concerned about the chain in the V-berth locker long term.

    Salt water, mud, weed. It's hard to get it all off even with a chain hose. Tends to smell.

    Any chance for a plastic bucket or other removable chain-capture device?
  9. nquigley's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Loren Beach
    Nice! We have Dri-Dek tiles lining the bottom of our smaller anchor locker. Good stuff.
    Presumably there is a honking-big backing plate on the U-bolt where the bitter end is secured.

    Well thought out project.
    Nice job!
    BTW, I read recently that one should tie the bitter end of anchor rode to the u-bolt with a few lengths of lightweight line - instead of directly to the u-bolt. The thinking being that, in an emergency (anchor is stuck in bottom and one must get away from the shore quickly) one wants to cut the rode free quickly, while possibly under load (tying a float to the rode first so you can find it later).
  10. Leslie Newman's Avatar
    Thanks for the reply. I totally understand, as I think long and hard before I change anything. Not sure I can bring myself to drill into my deck to install a windlass. So, if it ever happens I'll probably go into the pan some way. I understand you had no choice in the matter as the previous owner made that decision.

    I want to setup the chain locker better on my boat as soon as I get it home. It is currently up North and I will be bringing it down late May. It is still factory configuration.

    As I understand only part of the factory pan is over that cavity below. Some of the pan extends into the V berth area. So I guess a bit tricky working out what best to do. I'll continue to ponder and watch the threads for ideas. Your pipe mounted in the pan seems good as not much fear of water ingress.
  11. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Leslie Newman
    Hi. I am curious what is your plan to remove water from the lower chain area? Under then pan. I want to do something regarding our anchor arrangement at some point. Currently it is factory. I've been reading the different posts on this forum to get ideas.
    Thanks.
    Leslie
    Hi Leslie. I'm hoping that I don't have a lot of water end up in the lower chain area. Most of the water should drop off the chain into the anchor pan as it is retrieved and then drain out from the current pan drain line. The hawse pipe is a PVC pipe that sits up about 2 inches and is sealed onto the pan, so the only way for water to get down below is on the chain itself.

    In the lower chain locker under the V berth I have some Dri-Dek to keep the chain off the inside of the hull and hopefully allow the chain to dry more easily. Any water I get in the the V berth chain locker will drain out as it currently does through the limber holes back to the bilge.....at least I hope it will. The factory anchor pan setup is not ideal for sure. Some folks have reinforced the pan and mounted the windlass inside it while others have ripped the pan out altogether. In my case the windlass was already mounted on the deck so I decided to stick with the pan and work with it.
  12. Leslie Newman's Avatar
    Hi. I am curious what is your plan to remove water from the lower chain area? Under then pan. I want to do something regarding our anchor arrangement at some point. Currently it is factory. I've been reading the different posts on this forum to get ideas.
    Thanks.
    Leslie
  13. footrope's Avatar
    Nice work and it looks like a good plan. My 1980 didn't have that floor in the area forward of the v-berth.
  14. Loren Beach's Avatar
    Nice! We have Dri-Dek tiles lining the bottom of our smaller anchor locker. Good stuff.
    Presumably there is a honking-big backing plate on the U-bolt where the bitter end is secured.

    Well thought out project.
  15. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave N
    Looks great. How about a picture showing your method of attachment to the pulpit or bimini frame?
    The previous owner installed the frame using normal 1" stainless bimini frame tubing.

    https://www.emarineinc.com/categorie...for-Sail-Boats

    https://www.emarineinc.com/categorie...ting-Solutions

    To mount the panel I just drilled holes in the PV underside frame and used stainless steel U bolts to attach the panels to the frame tubing. The Stainless steel bolts are only $4.50 for four versus the $24.00 for two of the quick release plastic type. Maybe if I had to remove the panels in hurry ahead of a hurricane the plastic ones would be useful as the U bolts take ages to install and remove each of the nyloc nuts.

    https://www.emarineinc.com/SS-U-Bolt-1-4-20-x-1-inch-id

    https://www.emarineinc.com/1-inch-Rail-Clamps-Pair
  16. Dave N's Avatar
    Looks great. How about a picture showing your method of attachment to the pulpit or bimini frame?
  17. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth K
    That's a GREAT looking panel and setup. Thanks for all the info. Can you provide any details on the Heart Interface panel? It looks like some kind of "state of charge" indicator plus a lot more. I haven't seen that one before.

    Thanks for posting.
    No problem. My boat came with a Xantrex Freedom Marine 15 Inverter Charger http://www.xantrex.com that was installed in approximately 2001 by the previous owner and is rated for 1500W AC inverted output and 75A DC charging. The following YouTube video shows how the remote control display is used as the Inverter/Charger is installed under the quarter berth where the boat would have had two G27 batteries installed.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWOdaPN1Czk

    http://www.xantrex.com/documents/dis...nersmanual.pdf
  18. Kenneth K's Avatar
    That's a GREAT looking panel and setup. Thanks for all the info. Can you provide any details on the Heart Interface panel? It looks like some kind of "state of charge" indicator plus a lot more. I haven't seen that one before.

    Thanks for posting.
  19. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth K
    Nice install. I put a similar one in last year. Your tall, vertical runs to the filter would make it easy to add a fresh-water flushing tee if you desired. You could put a bronze tee fitting + shutoff valve or a Groco SSC valve (about $100) in the water intake line.

    It makes winterizing the RW cooling system very simple, and I like knowing there's not salt-water sitting in my system when the boat's lying around not being used.
    Hi Kenneth, I actually have a Groco SSC valve already installed on my raw water sea cock and used it for flushing the raw water system during winterization last October. It works great and can also be used as an emergency bilge pump in a worst case event.
  20. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth K
    I second Christians comment. A blog on solar charging systems would be helpful--not something I've seen on this sight.

    On my last trip to the auto-parts store, they had half a wall dedicated to solar panels and charge controllers (for the RV crowd, I suppose). It's pretty difficult for us neophytes to tell what's good from what's pure crap.

    My E32 is on a buoy year round so I need to get smart on solar. Nudge, nudge....
    Happy to do that. Give me a week or so I can take some photos and write up a blog.
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