Blog Comments

  1. fscott007's Avatar
    Just started mine, finished demo yesterday. Much of it came out in pieces. If I knew how to attach pictures on the site, I would. The structural grid is amazing. Using 1/2" plywood epoxies, the 3/8" teak and Holly on top.
  2. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Christian Williams
    Very good. As a point of information, we're not supposed to paint the keel bolts, nuts and washers. The stainless needs oxygen, and deprivation makes corrosion.

    I painted mine too, then thought better of it. It was not too difficult to isolate the stainless with painters tape, then brush on paint remover. Messy, yes, but a bilge repaint wasn't required. Final bolts cleanup with Dremel and awkward sanding.

    The job was less onerous that I expected. Not critical, probably, at least in the short term. But many old boats already have some (acceptable, inevitable) pitting of the keel bolts, so why encourage more.
    Good point Christian. I probably got a little carried away with the paint brush.
  3. Christian Williams's Avatar
    Very good. As a point of information, we're not supposed to paint the keel bolts, nuts and washers. The stainless needs oxygen, and deprivation makes corrosion.

    I painted mine too, then thought better of it. It was not too difficult to isolate the stainless with painters tape, then brush on paint remover. Messy, yes, but a bilge repaint wasn't required. Final bolts cleanup with Dremel and awkward sanding.

    The job was less onerous that I expected. Not critical, probably, at least in the short term. But many old boats already have some (acceptable, inevitable) pitting of the keel bolts, so why encourage more.
    Updated 05-25-2019 at 03:13 PM by Christian Williams
  4. markvone's Avatar
    Mike,
    Thanks! The new T&H has different widths of the T and the H compared to the old stuff I have.
    Mark
  5. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by markvone
    Hi Mike,

    Do you have any of the original T&H sole left? Looking for a small piece about 12 x 15 inches. Thanks, Mark
    Sorry I dumped the old sole, trust me it was stuffed. But I do have a small piece of the new T&H plywood. The holly strips are in the short 12 inch direction. Its 3/4 thick.
  6. markvone's Avatar
    Hi Mike,

    Do you have any of the original T&H sole left? Looking for a small piece about 12 x 15 inches. Thanks, Mark
  7. Kenneth K's Avatar
    Wonderful. Thank you.
  8. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth K
    Looks great.

    Where did you get the plastic covers for the opening ports?
    Hi Kenneth, the portlight rain shades are from Seaworthy Goods www. http://seaworthygoods.com/

    They help keep most of the rain from pooling on the portlight surrounds and allow us to keep the portlights upon most of the time, we still get some rain in when it bounces off the deck.

    Cheers,
    Mike
  9. Kenneth K's Avatar
    Looks great.

    Where did you get the plastic covers for the opening ports?
  10. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by nquigley
    Nice job!
    BTW, I read recently that one should tie the bitter end of anchor rode to the u-bolt with a few lengths of lightweight line - instead of directly to the u-bolt. The thinking being that, in an emergency (anchor is stuck in bottom and one must get away from the shore quickly) one wants to cut the rode free quickly, while possibly under load (tying a float to the rode first so you can find it later).
    Sorry for the slow reply. The picture the chain on the U bolt was not the final setup. I have a rope/line that is secured to the U bolt and the chain bitter end. If this line ever emerges from the hawsepipe it will allow me to cut the 275ft of chain away.
  11. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Christian Williams
    I'm concerned about the chain in the V-berth locker long term.

    Salt water, mud, weed. It's hard to get it all off even with a chain hose. Tends to smell.

    Any chance for a plastic bucket or other removable chain-capture device?
    Good idea. When I haul out this winter I'll drop the chain out and see how things look overall. Some type of plastic liner may be the thing to install.
  12. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Christian Williams
    In the photo the topping lift is still on the end of the boom. Will you now be able to remove it?
    Hi Christian, that's a good question and I should have mentioned why I didn't remove it. I have a Dutchman flaking system on my mainsail and the topping lift holds the filament lines that are weaved through the mainsail. One of the photos shows the mainsail cover and the filament lines.

    My boat came with a Dutchman system and I decided to stick with it when I ordered my new Mack Sails mainsail. It just works so easy when I drop the mainsail, it flakes very nicely onto the boom.

    Cheers,
    Mike
  13. Christian Williams's Avatar
    In the photo the topping lift is still on the end of the boom. Will you now be able to remove it?
  14. Christian Williams's Avatar
    I'm concerned about the chain in the V-berth locker long term.

    Salt water, mud, weed. It's hard to get it all off even with a chain hose. Tends to smell.

    Any chance for a plastic bucket or other removable chain-capture device?
  15. nquigley's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Loren Beach
    Nice! We have Dri-Dek tiles lining the bottom of our smaller anchor locker. Good stuff.
    Presumably there is a honking-big backing plate on the U-bolt where the bitter end is secured.

    Well thought out project.
    Nice job!
    BTW, I read recently that one should tie the bitter end of anchor rode to the u-bolt with a few lengths of lightweight line - instead of directly to the u-bolt. The thinking being that, in an emergency (anchor is stuck in bottom and one must get away from the shore quickly) one wants to cut the rode free quickly, while possibly under load (tying a float to the rode first so you can find it later).
  16. Leslie Newman's Avatar
    Thanks for the reply. I totally understand, as I think long and hard before I change anything. Not sure I can bring myself to drill into my deck to install a windlass. So, if it ever happens I'll probably go into the pan some way. I understand you had no choice in the matter as the previous owner made that decision.

    I want to setup the chain locker better on my boat as soon as I get it home. It is currently up North and I will be bringing it down late May. It is still factory configuration.

    As I understand only part of the factory pan is over that cavity below. Some of the pan extends into the V berth area. So I guess a bit tricky working out what best to do. I'll continue to ponder and watch the threads for ideas. Your pipe mounted in the pan seems good as not much fear of water ingress.
  17. kiwisailor's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Leslie Newman
    Hi. I am curious what is your plan to remove water from the lower chain area? Under then pan. I want to do something regarding our anchor arrangement at some point. Currently it is factory. I've been reading the different posts on this forum to get ideas.
    Thanks.
    Leslie
    Hi Leslie. I'm hoping that I don't have a lot of water end up in the lower chain area. Most of the water should drop off the chain into the anchor pan as it is retrieved and then drain out from the current pan drain line. The hawse pipe is a PVC pipe that sits up about 2 inches and is sealed onto the pan, so the only way for water to get down below is on the chain itself.

    In the lower chain locker under the V berth I have some Dri-Dek to keep the chain off the inside of the hull and hopefully allow the chain to dry more easily. Any water I get in the the V berth chain locker will drain out as it currently does through the limber holes back to the bilge.....at least I hope it will. The factory anchor pan setup is not ideal for sure. Some folks have reinforced the pan and mounted the windlass inside it while others have ripped the pan out altogether. In my case the windlass was already mounted on the deck so I decided to stick with the pan and work with it.
  18. Leslie Newman's Avatar
    Hi. I am curious what is your plan to remove water from the lower chain area? Under then pan. I want to do something regarding our anchor arrangement at some point. Currently it is factory. I've been reading the different posts on this forum to get ideas.
    Thanks.
    Leslie
  19. footrope's Avatar
    Nice work and it looks like a good plan. My 1980 didn't have that floor in the area forward of the v-berth.
  20. Loren Beach's Avatar
    Nice! We have Dri-Dek tiles lining the bottom of our smaller anchor locker. Good stuff.
    Presumably there is a honking-big backing plate on the U-bolt where the bitter end is secured.

    Well thought out project.
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