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HughHarv
08-04-2010, 01:46 PM
I thought I'd share these pics to show the rudder rebuilt with a 6" stretch to the midsection following B.K.'s drawings as best I could in the process. Someday, maybe early next summer, I'll launch and see how she steers.

Sven
08-04-2010, 04:39 PM
Thanks for posting those Hugh !

Interesting way to do the stretch ... was that your idea or did you copy someone else's work. Neat idea either way.

Did you put in any structural members to tie the two original parts together across the extension piece ?

So you can actually wait until next year to try it out !? I'd be bursting at the seams to find out if it was me :egrin:



-Sven

HughHarv
08-04-2010, 05:01 PM
My idea, wish it would have come from elsewhere as it took me far too long to come up with it on my own.


Thanks for posting those Hugh !

Interesting way to do the stretch ... was that your idea or did you copy someone else's work. Neat idea either way.

Surprising easy execution, once I figured out how to jig it up straight.

Did you put in any structural members to tie the two original parts together across the extension piece ?

No, my cut followed the steel plate which extends quite a ways down the rudder so I figured if I glassed over some foam using epoxy it'd be sturdy enough. But maybe I just created a break-away rudder, time will tell.

So you can actually wait until next year to try it out !? I'd be bursting at the seams to find out if it was me :egrin:

I'm usually not that patient but I know me, if I don't get a lot of the other smaller projects done before launch, they'll never get done. Sail or....sail! ;)



-Sven

tenders
08-04-2010, 07:51 PM
Looks great. Was it cost-effective compared to buying a new "revised" rudder from Foss Foam in California?

I ask because I replaced the rudder on my E32 this season and the new rudder doesn't have that (distinctive-looking but aerodynamically unsound) swept-back angle at the leading edge.

It's also a bit deeper than the original, with just a bit more surface area.

And it was fairly reasonable compared to a rebuilding.

HughHarv
08-04-2010, 11:27 PM
Looks great. Was it cost-effective compared to buying a new "revised" rudder from Foss Foam in California?

I ask because I replaced the rudder on my E32 this season and the new rudder doesn't have that (distinctive-looking but aerodynamically unsound) swept-back angle at the leading edge.

It's also a bit deeper than the original, with just a bit more surface area.

And it was fairly reasonable compared to a rebuilding.


Thanks. I looked at the foss rudder but was waved off by what I learned about the ineffectiveness of their rudder on my boat due to lack of sufficient surface area.

As far as cost, my post and plate were in good shape so the materials (cloth, mat, fillers & epoxy) was less than $150. I also had the pintle turned down and a delrin bearing made for another $50. The several weekends of labor was all mine so I saved a bunch there. Of course a pro would probably do it in half the time for several hundred more.

Guy Stevens
08-05-2010, 12:49 PM
It should make a big difference as you have done it!

I would have eliminated the concavity of the rudder, and added a litter more to the chord dimension as well while I was at it, but I am certain that you will see a difference in the way the boat steers. (A positive one! :egrin: )

robjpowell
08-05-2010, 03:03 PM
Tenders: Do you recall the cost of your 'revised rudder'? This is an expense I need to plan for on my E35 soon (I want to reduce the weather helm by increasing area) and i'd just like to estimate how many boat units are involved.

Thanks

Rob

windjunkee
08-05-2010, 03:13 PM
I spent $800 to have my rudder reshaped and extended to a higher-aspect ratio (more narrow, deeper). Added a little less than 3 sq. feet of area to it. Had the work done by a local boat builder here in Southern California in 2006. That may give you an idea of the cost.

Jim McCone
Voice of Reason, E-32-2 Hull #134
Redondo Beach, CA

robjpowell
08-05-2010, 03:36 PM
Thanks Jim. I'll file it as a $1000+ job
Rob

HughHarv
08-05-2010, 03:50 PM
It should make a big difference as you have done it!

I would have eliminated the concavity of the rudder, and added a litter more to the chord dimension as well while I was at it, but I am certain that you will see a difference in the way the boat steers. (A positive one! :egrin: )


Good to know that you think my rudder improvements will make a big difference. For some reason my rudder already had a little more chord than the B.K. drawings that I got from you (thanks for the help there). Due to not knowing if my original rudder was built to spec or not and for lack of solid reference dimensions on the drawings, I could only assume that the drawings were actually printed at 100% of full size. In the end, I decided to cut the templates about 3/16" or so wide of Bruce's lines and went for it.

I thought about eliminating the concavity in the upper portion, but from what I read, the hollow may make some difference in drag reduction with the rudder lined up straight behind the hull or skeg so I decided not to create extra work for myself there. In the end, there is additional length, width, chord and leading edge added over the B.K. modified rudder drawings. Might even be too much, and maybe I'll need a bigger boat in front of so much additional rudder. :D

HughHarv
08-05-2010, 04:31 PM
Looks great. Was it cost-effective compared to buying a new "revised" rudder from Foss Foam in California?

Depends on ones goals. Before I bought the boat, I had already decided to learn all that I could about the boat and keep cost under control. That meant doing everything I could myself, if the rudder functions better than original then I"ll think it was a heck of a deal.

I ask because I replaced the rudder on my E32 this season and the new rudder doesn't have that (distinctive-looking but aerodynamically unsound) swept-back angle at the leading edge.

Yeah, I hope that swept back angle really helps to keep stray lines and kelp from hanging up on the rudder. Maybe if I go a few years without having to dive on it in the middle of the night to clear a snag....

It's also a bit deeper than the original, with just a bit more surface area.

Cool. Have you actually calculated the difference in area? If the Foss rudder has a longer chord and is also thicker chord, without a lot cut away at tip, you may have even more additional surface area than before.

And it was fairly reasonable compared to a rebuilding.

That's cool too.

tenders
08-06-2010, 12:16 AM
I haven't calculated the difference in area but it's obvious from the drawing.

The cost was $1400 before shipping. Could have saved a few hundred had I used my existing rudder stock, etc. but it didn't seem worth it to excavate the hardware out of the old rudder, send it to California, and risk that it was worn or rusted, etc. beyond reuse.

HughHarv
08-06-2010, 11:39 AM
I haven't calculated the difference in area but it's obvious from the drawing.

I think this is the same rudder shape that I was advised against buying, something about less surface area due to less chord dimension? Like comparing a thin fighter wing with less lift versus a thicker bomber wing with more lift. What is important is have you tried it out in all conditions and did the new shape prove itself equal or superior to the original?

The cost was $1400 before shipping. Could have saved a few hundred had I used my existing rudder stock, etc. but it didn't seem worth it to excavate the hardware out of the old rudder, send it to California, and risk that it was worn or rusted, etc. beyond reuse.

Good to change the rudderstock for peace of mind, if no other reason.

Mark F
05-15-2011, 01:30 PM
Hi Harvey,

Have you gotten the new rudder design out sailing? Anything to report?

HughHarv
05-15-2011, 11:53 PM
Hi Harvey,

Have you gotten the new rudder design out sailing? Anything to report?


Boat could be launched but I am still working on a number of other projects. I'll try to remember to post about the rudder when I do get her back in.

thanks for asking.