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Racing an Ericson 27

I've been sailing and racing the same Ericson 27 for 27 years now. The boat is 30 years old this year. Mine is the outboard model, with the motor in a cutout in the stern.
I have found that my boat is very weight sensitive, particularly with weight in the stern. In the class I race in, the outboard has to be kept in place, not removed and stored down below for better weight distribution. To counter that outboard's weight, I store all my sails in the forepeak. I have adjusted the port/starboard weight so that it is equal. Fore and aft, the boat is on her lines.
In racing, with two people in the cockpit, we put no weight aft of the winches, original Barlows. My boat carries a vang, backstay adjuster and a Cunningham. We adjust halyard tension when necessary. Bottom is almost always clean. The boat is raced with a full crusing complement...cushions, refrigeration, stove, all the extra gear, including food. I can add ice and go cruising for a week. The food (and beer) is already on board.
My 27 rates 225 in non-spinnaker and 240 in true cruising. It sure makes people with bigger, faster boats a little taut to see us finish 15 minutes ahead of them in real time.
My 155 gennie is about three years old. The main is 12 years old. Also carry a 30-year-old working jib, a storm jib and a cruising chute.
If you race your 27, you are racing a winner!
 
Racing a 26

I can't see where the two would be much different. What works for me should work for you. But, god, you have to pay attention to the little stuff. I have been racing my boat, on and off, for 27 years, so time on the boat counts for something.
 
More on racing an E-27

(This is an email reply I sent to Bob Boe in Va. It may hold some value for others. MS)

Bob,

On my rig tension--which seems to be the main thrust of your message--I tighten the uppers at the dock to where is equal tension on both. The forward lowers are a little tighter than the aft lowers. I do this by feel. Anyway, once I have the rig in column at the dock, I go out and sail the boat and look for the mast getting out of column at the top. I'll tack and then tighten the upper until I think it is right and then tack and check again. There should be NO difference between either side, and the only way
you get this straight is putting the rig under load and adjusting it until it's right. Don't try to adjust the windward side. Always adjust the lee (loose) side and then tack.

As far as the headstay is concerned, mine is normally a bit loose. I can tighten it up by backstay tension. But in the light winds we get down here on the West Coast of Florida a slightly loose headstay will give your sail more draft in light air.

It doesn't hurt to go out in a breeze and check mast column from time to time. It's not one of those Ronco electric ovens, where you just "set it and forget it."

I think knowing what your rights are under sail are pretty important. If you know the rules, you will know how to gain ground when you can and not give it up when you don't have to. I have UK Sailmakers' Real Time Racing Rules. It is worth owning.

Practice starting is a great idea. Get the crew together and do an hour's worth of practice starts in five minute increments. You'll get in 12 of them. Then take a break and do another "set." Ask for input. As far as starting in a real race, the Vanderbilt start--which nearly everyone uses--sucks. No one gets the timing right. I try to be a lot closer to the line during the countdown. Practice is what makes this an effective tool. If you are going too fast, blow off the jib, but keep the main in. The main gives to distance to weather, something you cannot afford to give up. The jib is for speed. Try to be slightly early at the start--a couple of seconds. You'll probably start on time.

If, after the start, you are getting the exhaust (bad air) of the boats that started to weather or ahead of you, get out of there. Tack. Get clear air. When you are getting someone else's exhaust, you are screwed.

Understand a persistent lift from a persistent header. Know what they feel like and make sure you are ready to go when you must.

On my own boat, I encourage a lot of talk directed back at the skipper, which is usually me. I want everyone's input, but I make the final decision. I don't see everything (can't see everything), and in the pre start maneuvering I want a lot of info coming my way, particularly when we are using a 155% genoa, which is a decksweeper.

Once the boat is on a beat, I get the lazy winch ready. Two wraps of the lazy sheet on the winch and the winch handle in. Most times, particularly if I let the boat coast a bit directly into the wind during the middle of the tack, the trimmer can get most of the sail in manually and will not have to use the winch handle until the very end, usually when we are hardening up on
the wind.

Movement on a boat in light air is critical. When it is real light, we move like cats on my boat.

Knowing what the tide will do can gain you a big advantage, particularly if no one else is thinking about it. Last fall, knowing that we were going to be facing a stronger outgoing tide as we got closer to the mark, we took a 25-degree cut at the course. The direct course to the mark was 15 degrees. We were sailing 40 degrees. It was still difficult to make the mark, because
the air got lighter and the closer we got to he mark the stronger the current was. Anyway, the boats that didn't allow for current got set down bad. We beat 40 and 50 footers to the finish line and won our class by 42 minutes. But that is because we had a plan. There is an old military saying--I was told that they teach it at West Point--that goes, "A bad plan well executed is better than no plan at all."

Sailboat racing is such a subjective thing that what works for one guy might not work for someone else quite as well, but I have given you some starting points. A clean bottom in a MUST. A faired rudder is a lovely thing to have.

By the way, for instruments I have an old EMS wind speed indicator that still works, a new Garmin GPS, a Windex, a Ray Marine ST60 Tridata (speed, depth, water temp, distance, VMG, coundown clock, etc.), tactical compasses port and starboard. Incinometer is in the companionway. Can't sail my boat well much past 20 degrees angle of heel, but she does better with some heel in light air.

I have slab reefing--two reef points. Reefing lines are always in. There is an outhaul on the main. And there are numbers next to the holes on the genoa car track, which has been extended about four feet over normal. I have a snatch blocks on the stanchion bases near where the uppers connect to the chain plates. They are perfect for broad reaches. Next blocks aft are
Garhauer snatch blocks. I put the 155 lead into them on reaches and broad reaches. The working jib sheet goes through them when I am sailing with a working jib. Slightly forward of the winches are the turning blocks (Garhauer with titanium shackles) for the 155.

I have a good crew. We win a lot of races, but we all get along and there is no Captain Bligh crap on the boat.

What else do you want to know?

Morgan

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob in Va" <oleboe@aol.com>
To: <mstine7611@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 9:40 PM
Subject: Racing the Ericson


> This is a message from Bob in Va at EY.c Information Exchange (
http://www.ericsonyachts.com/infoexchange/index.php ). The EY.c Information
Exchange owners cannot accept any responsibility for the contents of the
email.
>
> To email Bob in Va, you can use this online form:
>
http://www.ericsonyachts.com/infoexchange/member.php?action=mailform&userid=
560
>
> OR, by email:
> mailto:oops:leboe@aol.com
>
> This is the message:
>
> Morgan - I have enjoyed your input in the Ericson site, and especially the
latest one about racing. I just bought an E23. have sailed it only 7 times,
and couldn't be happier with it. I'm planning to race it this year but fear
the phrf of 222 will make it tough to do well on handicap. That's OK with
me, though, as I'd rather sail a faster boat and get beat on handicap than
sail a slug and win the trophy. I appreciated your comments on weight
distribution and would welcome any other pearls you have gathered over the
years. Though I have sailed a lot and crewed on a pretty strong boat (for
our lake), my experience as a race skipper is limited to two races in an
uncompetitive boat. My brother sent me this sort of tongue in cheek, but
what do you think? http://www.well.com/user/pk/M25tuning.html
> Please keep giving good racing advice. Regards - Bob Boe in VA
>
 

jwolfgra

Member II
I have an ericson 29, to my eye's it seems to be almost a direct clone of the 27, just stretched out a bit. Do the racing guidelines for the 27 apply to the 29 as well. Also, does the 29 have the same relative competitiveness of the 27.
 
As the competitiveness [such a word?] of a 29, I cannot say. But the design is the same, just longer and a bit heavier. My guess is that they are principally the same boat. Interestingly, in my first race, we beat a 29. We were in a squall and we had roller furling and they did not. I'd like to take credit for that, but the guy who was driving the boat knew something about sailing and I didn't know squat. But I got a puny trophy that I kept for years. Such pride!
 
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