just purchased a 1980 e35-2. One of the problems the boat has is a leak in the aux. water tank under the cabin floor. Would like to by-pass the tank and if possible remove the tank, would lie to know if anyone has had a problem like this. Trying to find a good drawing of the layout of the fresh water system and find out if anyone has removed or replaced the tank and how they got the tank out.
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Tom Plummer
Member III
The tank is easy to bypass been there done that.
The tank is not so easy to remove and replace. In fact I would call that process daunting. At least on my 1981 vintage it is.
First you have to take up the Teak and Holly Sole, mine was both glued and screwed down the screws were on 4” centers and that was a lot of screws half of which had to be drilled out. Silicon-bronze does not like to be extracted. Oh and you will have to cut the sole some place because it will not come out in one piece. I cut mine athortships on a line with the back of the aft end of the port side settee.
After all of that is done then you have to cut a big access hole in the floor pan to gain access to the tank. Finagle the tank out of the bilge, ship it off to a tank builder have them make an exact copy, finesse the new tank back into the hole and then glass the patch you cut out of the floor pan back in place.
And for what it’s worth every one I talked to about doing this stated that you need to be out of the water when you make that big of a cut in your floor pan. They said that the pan would most likely buckle because of the pressure from the water.
The tank is not so easy to remove and replace. In fact I would call that process daunting. At least on my 1981 vintage it is.
First you have to take up the Teak and Holly Sole, mine was both glued and screwed down the screws were on 4” centers and that was a lot of screws half of which had to be drilled out. Silicon-bronze does not like to be extracted. Oh and you will have to cut the sole some place because it will not come out in one piece. I cut mine athortships on a line with the back of the aft end of the port side settee.
After all of that is done then you have to cut a big access hole in the floor pan to gain access to the tank. Finagle the tank out of the bilge, ship it off to a tank builder have them make an exact copy, finesse the new tank back into the hole and then glass the patch you cut out of the floor pan back in place.
And for what it’s worth every one I talked to about doing this stated that you need to be out of the water when you make that big of a cut in your floor pan. They said that the pan would most likely buckle because of the pressure from the water.
exoduse35
Sustaining Member
As stated above tank removal is almost impossible as it was placed into the hull before the sole was dropped in with NO provision to ever access it. Before you panic, first figure out where and why it leaks. It could be from a hose or fitting that can be dealt with easily. also it is possible to cut an access hole into the sole and then one into the top of the tank. from there work can be done from inside the tank without removal. that is how I fixed mine, can take photos and measurements or what ever you need. As for hose routing, the best thing to do is spend a little "quality time" on your hands & knees before you load the lockers with stuff. After 30 years it is impossible to tell what the p/o's did, and as the hose fills with green nasties after a few years, it has undoubtedly been replaced and probably needs it again (not too hard or expensive either, my boat has about 150' of hose @ $7.99 for 50' a bunch of clamps and some tees from the garden dept.) Welcome to the world of boat ownership... at least you got the best
Have fun,Edd e35-2#164
Have fun,Edd e35-2#164Forward Tank Option
The 74' E35II has a 20ga SS forward tank under the V-Birth.
You will see this Option in the E35-3 Manual in the Specs and Docs.
Abandoning the under the sole tank sounds like a good idea :nerd:
You will see a section of the Tank in the E35II Manual, missing the diagram.
Sure would be nice to see a COMPLETE E35II Manual instead of bits and
pieces
Anyone Outhere have a E35II Manual to share
The 74' E35II has a 20ga SS forward tank under the V-Birth.
You will see this Option in the E35-3 Manual in the Specs and Docs.
Abandoning the under the sole tank sounds like a good idea :nerd:
You will see a section of the Tank in the E35II Manual, missing the diagram.
Sure would be nice to see a COMPLETE E35II Manual instead of bits and
pieces
Anyone Outhere have a E35II Manual to share
Tapping into a SS tank
I have a similar problem in my E39. The under-sole tank (assuming it's SS or Monel) may or may not have a leak. To make matters worse, the outlet for the tank is in the forward end, located dead up against the steel reinforcement beam that runs athwartships, so it's next to impossible to even get to the fitting.
If it's not leaking I'd like to be able to drill a new outlet in the aft end of the tank, which is easily accessible and right over the bilge pump for easy draining. If I have to abandon the tank, I'd do this anyway just to make sure it stays empty.
Anyone know how to go about adding a fitting to a SS tank?
I have a similar problem in my E39. The under-sole tank (assuming it's SS or Monel) may or may not have a leak. To make matters worse, the outlet for the tank is in the forward end, located dead up against the steel reinforcement beam that runs athwartships, so it's next to impossible to even get to the fitting.
If it's not leaking I'd like to be able to drill a new outlet in the aft end of the tank, which is easily accessible and right over the bilge pump for easy draining. If I have to abandon the tank, I'd do this anyway just to make sure it stays empty.
Anyone know how to go about adding a fitting to a SS tank?
exoduse35
Sustaining Member
There are fittings made that look like a threaded bullet casing that has been drilled at the end and threaded down the cylinder. then have a gasket at the flange and another gasket and a jamb nut. I think they are called a bulkhead fitting and will do the job. the tricky part is that the flange goes to the inside ofk the tank, meaning that you will either need to fish it on a wire from the fill hose flange or cut an access hole in the top of the tank. the later can be ugly but does make plugging leaks easier and cleaning the scum & rust out. and can even be used to add a sender for a gauge to tell the level. (the bright side?) any way hope it helps good luck, EDD
Tank tapping device
I just found this tank tapping device online from a guy who needed to tap into a grey water tank, but had no access from the inside:
Supposedly it can be inserted from the outside and tightened to make a watertight outlet with a thread that will accept standard plumbing fittings.
The only problem is he doesn't mention the name of the device or where he got it from. When I find it I'll post it here.
I just found this tank tapping device online from a guy who needed to tap into a grey water tank, but had no access from the inside:
Supposedly it can be inserted from the outside and tightened to make a watertight outlet with a thread that will accept standard plumbing fittings.
The only problem is he doesn't mention the name of the device or where he got it from. When I find it I'll post it here.
gareth harris
Sustaining Member
Anyone Outhere have a E35II Manual to share
My E35-2 manual has been scanned into the documents section here, but it does not really tell you that much that is useful. It has a few diagrams of the water tank locations under the cabin sole.
Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972