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Alternator RX

Geoff Johnson

Fellow Ericson Owner
A few weeks ago I finally got around to installing a Link 20 battery monitor that I had purchased a few years ago. When I fired it up, I was shocked to see that the charge voltage at the battery was down to 13.2 volts (basically useless). I have now implemented wiring change "A" recommended by Tom Metzger (specs found on this site) which involved disconnecting the 10 gauge alternator output wire running to the ammeter on the engine panel and replacing it with a short 6 gauge wire running from the alternator output post directly to the solenoid (which is connected to the positive common from the battery switch). The charging voltage jumped to 13.8 volts, which is adequate, although I may still install a three stage regulator next winter to get the bulk phase up to 14.4 volts. The moral is that as the boats get older (mine's a 1985), the electrical system in particular needs attention.
 

ref_123

Member III
Where is the spec?

Hi, Geoff,

where should I look for that change "A"? I tried to search on Tom's name and on 'change "a"', with no result. I understand the idea, but still would like to take a look...

Thanks,
Stan
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Tom's article is in the "Owners & Projects" part of this site. There is a PDF of the article you can d/l.

Loren
 

escapade

Inactive Member
electrical

When I purchased Escapade 2 yrs. ago I had lots of problems keeping the batterys up & starting the engine. Had the alternator rebuilt w/new internal regulator (stock). Incorporated the changes outlined in this site, including rerouting the power supply to the preheat & start buttons. Made unbelievable difference. Stock alternator/regulator output is up to 14.4 Volts @ the solenoid connection. No longer any problems starting or keeping the batterys charged. I believe everyone should do this before spending a small fortune on hi-output alternators & 3 stage regulators. Not that they are bad, but I believe most applications will find the stock componets sufficient. The hi-output/3 stage electrical is really meant for long term cruisers who need maximun charging w/minimum engine run time. Most cruisers who vacation for 2 or 3 weeks won't see enough difference to warrent the cost, IMHO. Only real drawback to the aforementioned wiring change is that the amp meter is no longer in the charge circut so you will have to depend on the battery condition monitor to keep up on level of charge. Wires are like water pipes. the larger the diameter & shorter the run, the more efficient they are.
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 "Escapade"
 
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