USVI or BVI bareboat chartering

[Quiet Magic]

I am wondering what qualifications are needed to bareboat. Also I'd like to know what the pros/cons of sailing in the USVI or in the BVI are and which, from first hand experience, is a better place to do it. Right now my family is thinking of Chartering through Island yachts in the USVI but we are unsure of our decision. I've heard that there is more of a crime problem in the US islands than in the British ones, is this true?
Thanks for any help.

[SeaDog]

The US or British Virgin Islands are a great location for your first bareboat charter. Anchorages are plentiful (mostly moorings), islands are close and generally provide good protection from wind and seas, navigation is simple, snorkeling is excellent, dinner ashore or reprovisioning are available in most anchorages, etc. The charter company will require a sailing resume showing experience in yachts of similar size to that being chartered. You can go to the Moorings or Sunsail web pages to download the required resume forms. Although visual navigation is usually possible, I strongly advise a good foundation in coastal navigation, including chart plotting and DR, bearings, use of gps, etc. Many anchorages have moorings but you should also have good skills in setting an anchor.

I have chartered mainly with Sunsail and I highly recommend them. Although I have not chartered with the Moorings, I have heard nothing but good reports. Both of these companies have relatively new and well maintained boats and both do quality boat and chart briefings before you set out. If you need a little assistance, both can provide a Captain for a half day or more. This past September, I chartered with TMM in Belize. We had a beautiful 2004 Belize 43 but maintenance was not up to Sunsail standards and we did have some difficulties getting the base to turn on their VHF. My experience in Belize may be slightly colored by Wilma passing within a hundred miles of us.

In 2003, we chartered (Sunsail) in the Greek Ionian Islands…. Fantastic but practice med-more because that’s the standard. In 2000, I charted (Sunsail) in St. Vincent and the Grenadines… my absolute favorite in the Caribbean.

Bottom line. Bareboat chartering is easy, relatively inexpensive and FUN! Have a great time… and “just do it”.

Kirby
Skipper, Uff Da, Ericson 32
:egrin:

[escapade]

We chartered through Sunsail (also) in the BVI about 10 years ago. Would also recommend them. We did not sail in the US side at all (no need to clear in & out of customs that way). Flew into Beef Is. & then picked up our boat. At that time it was mostly anchoring as opposed to mooring balls. Ground tackle was top line (CQR's) w/windlasses. As noted water was warm & clear. Navigation was line of sight, we took a hand bearing compass & never needed it. Chart was basically a place mat size print. Fill out the resume & send them the money (hardest part!) and let the fun begin. One of our best vacations ever!
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 "Escapade":cheers:

[Mindscape]

We've chartered multiple times in the BVI (with Sunsail) and have had nothing but a great time! Sunsail has been good to us. The sailing is easy, and navigation simple. I've only used charts,a compass and DR down there. If you had a GPS it would be only for backup. Anchoring is easy now with all of the moorings, although you should be familar with anchoring in case there are no moorings available.

IMHO if you are a competent costal sailor you should be good to go in the BVI. We've used a captain once, and I wouldn't do it again, not because the captain wasn't helpful, just didn't feel we needed him. If you are uncomfortable, or want some help try a captain for a day or two.

We've had good experience with Sunsail, have heard great things about the Moorings (both are now owned by the same parent). I agree with Bud - the biggest requirement is money. Last time we chartered a cat, and loved it, were able to split the cost between 3 couples which made the cost pretty good for an island vacation.

Have Fun!!!!

[Stuart]

Great to hear all the good things being said about the BVI's and Sunsail as I leave on the 28th of this month for a couple of weeks of chartering with Sunsail in the BVI's. I will be back around the 20th of March and will let you know how it was.
The sent me about a three page form asking questions about experience and other sailing stuff, seemed to be interested if I have operated a boat of the size we chartered.

Cheers

[ted_reshetiloff]

Sunsail in the Grenadines 2 weeks in November. Great company, great location, not crowded. Sailed out of St. Vincent. Nuff Said.

[Geoff Johnson]

What I didn't like about the BVI's and the reason I probably won't return is that the Brits do not require holding tanks. So when swimning in crowded anchorages (and they always are) you are basically swimming in a sewer. I came home with an earache, probably the first one I've had in 45 years. Nothing like sitting in the cockpit for breakfast and watching yesterday's meals float by.

[Shadowfax]

I've chartered in the BVI 5 times. I can highly recommend them as safe confortable crusing grounds. I would say 90% of the boats you will encounter at this time of the year will be charter boats. Though the BVI's might not require holding tanks they all have them and I can't say I've ever found sewage floating by, but that dosen't mean it dosen't ever happen. I prefer the BVI's over the USVI's. The people are friendier, I never felt unconfortable out at night walking around, something I cannot say about St. Thomas. St. Johns is delightful.

I've chatered with Moorings, which is high end and pretty much all new boats. After 5 years the boats are refitted and turned over the Sunsail. Sunsail is also a great outfit. We had a problem with one of their boats and they where right on it. After the boat runs its course with Sunsail it gets gone over again and is turned over to Footloose Charters. All 3 of these charter conpanies are next to each other. The last two times we chatrted it was with Footloose. The boats are USED, but the saving is great and we never had a problem with the boats.

Have fun. Make sure you hit Cooper Island. Cane Garden Bay is great if no Cruise ships are in. Fozys is a must at least on your fist trip, but I like Harris's. Marina Cay is like landing in a story book and Leverick Bay has a great Friday or Saturday thing that you should try to make. Moor either here od the Bitter End and take the taxi to the Baths. You get to see the whole island and the Baths. Also the Baths should be avoided if a cruise ship is in.

Wow this is getting long. Enjoy. Email me if you need specifics.

Paul

s/v Shadowfax

[Geoff Johnson]

Peter Island was nice because it was somewhat out of the way, at least for the BVI's. As for holding tanks, the TMM base on Tortola a few years ago had no means of pumping them out (and if I recall correctly, we were instructed not to use our holding tank). Hopefully things have changed since then.

The best charter spot I've been to so far is the south coast of Turkey. I went last May (Marmaris to Gocek) and am going again in September (Bodrum to Marmaris) (you want to avoid the summer because of the heat and the Meltemi). The water is clear and deep, the scenery is spectacular, the food is good and cheap and the people are friendly. Sunsail has a number of bases that cater mostly to Europeans.

[stbdtack]

Geoff,
glad to hear you liked Turkey. It was my first choice, with Croatia a close 2nd and The Seychelles 3rd.
In the end the group I'm going with couldnt agree, so going to Belize in April on a 47 Moorings cat.
The next trip is definitely Turkey. Now Ive got a resource for travel tips there!

QM, Id pick BVI over USVI anyday. Been to both many times and I like the people, culture and anchorages better in the british islands. Probably less crime in the BVI although Road Town has some scary spots too.

[SeaDog]

Ben,

The sailing and snorkeling in Belize is great. We chartered a Belize 43 out of TMM in Placencia in October. Yes, October is hurricane season and yes, we had some rather anxious moments as “Wilma” advanced directly for us prior to turning North. We had one day of 30 knot winds and a few nights of 20 knot winds but no significant rain. Of course the winds were coming out of the West and Northwest and the decent anchorages were only protected from East and Northeast winds.

I have not sailed Turkey but we charted with Sunsail in the Greek Ionian Islands in September of 2004. Alas, Turkey and Croatia are both on my list for future charters but, if you have not done the Ionian Islands, I would highly recommend the trip.

Kirby
Uff Da, E32
Alamitos Bay (Long Beach), California

[Chris Miller]

We've always been a pretty big fan of the Moorings, and Sunsail has a great reputation as well. Now you can have both! Sunsail got bought out a while ago... their parent company just purchased the Moorings as well and is going to brand the whole thing as Sunsail. Just FYI.
I'm thinking that may leave room for smaller operations like Horizon to expand a little and compete with price and service.
Sounds like a fun trip!
Chris

[stbdtack]

Moorings has always been a well run operation, I hope it doesnt change with the new owners.

Kirby, Glad you liked Belize, I think thats why we all agreed on it, no surprises, great water, pretty good weather and cheap flights.

Greece is definitley on the list though.....

[Quiet Magic]

Well I am happy to say that we booked the charter. Its through Sunsail in the BVI for 7 days on a Sun Odessy 35. Sunsail seemed to be the majority rule. Were are also taking a skipper for a day, just to make sure we do things right. Thanks for all the replies, they really helped to make a final decsion on the charter company. I'm hoping the BVI is all its cracked up to be.

[Geoff Johnson]

Have fun. I remember an afternoon at Soper's Hole watching the Sunsail dock personnel helping the newly arrived and nervous charterers get off the dock (it was blowing pretty hard onto the dock) with much commotion when a young Frenchman and his very attractive female companion ambled down to the opposite dock, started the engine on their 50+ foot Swan, and while he uncleated the lines with one hand (holding his Gauloise in the other) and then jumped aboard, she pulled out of the slip like she was pulling out of a parking spot. It may be hard to tell, but I was impressed.

[Stuart]

I have just returned from 2 weeks at that base, If you have not yet left I can give you lost of current info.
Cheers
Stuart

[Quiet Magic]

what do info do you have?

[Stuart]

Hi Steve

I sent you a message with my phone number if you want to call, but here are a few things.
When you arrive seek out Sven, he sets you up with your boat and does a bunch of stuff, say Hi to him from me, hopefully he won’t hold that against you.
I purchased charts before I left and brought them with me, the chart they give you allows you to go to all the “tourist bays” but lacks detail if you want to explore. The best places we anchored are discouraged against in the guide book on the boat, be sure you are set with lots of scope and you shouldn’t have any problems. This opens up a bigger world; in short, Sunsail very much encourages you to use the mooring balls. This is great and easy but if you venture out and anchor you will find spots that are pretty nice. I spent 150.00 on the charts and they were worth every penny, given what the entire trip cost it wasn’t much, sort of.
Read Paul’s post he has many of the spots. The Baths are a definite must if the weather is right, just explore and wiggle through the rocks, it’s pretty cool. Be careful though if it is rough the waves will smash you against the rocks like a wet rag and it hurts! Get there early, we arrived about 8:30am and 50% of the day only mooring balls were gone and by 9:30 am the place was full, you are not allowed to anchor at the baths.
My favorite place was probably Dead Man Bay on Peter Island, a post card beach of sand and palm trees, it’s not deserted, the Peter Island Resort is there as well as there was two other boats that were anchored. It is a very nice resort and probably one of the best meals we ate out. They have two restaurants, a long pant, jacket type place ($$$) and a more casual shorts and T shirt place ($). We went to the T shirt one, reasonable price main course and great atmospheres. Our bill was half of what we paid at Foxy’s Taboo for about the same meal. Most of the restaurants are expensive, at the bitter End Yacht Club we went to the pup and ate a great burger for 10 bucks, some friends went to the restaurant and were both disappointed and broke after dinner.

When provisioning you can go to the next Village (by cab) to the Fine Food Store, 10 times the selection as what is at the base and lots more reasonable, there is a great little bakery across the street with about the best Banana bread I have had. This village is between the Sunsail base and the airport, the food store will be on your right when traveling from the airport.

There is another grocery store in Roadtown that will pick you up for free to go there and shop, both stores are about the same but the one in the village is lots quieter, about a 5.00 ride each way.
There is more but many other things to do, have a great trip!
Cheers:egrin:
Stuart

[chrism]

Steve,

When are you leaving? I'm off next week for the BVI's...

[Stuart]

One thing I forgot to mention, most of the bottom when anchoring is grass and the anchor skips along. I looked down to the bottom and dropped on sandy spots, hooked every time. I watched others beside me make several attempts, maybe because of the grass, maybe I was just lucky.
Cheers
Stuart

[Quiet Magic]

I was also wondering is it cheaper to provision yourself using local gerocery stores or to provision with sunsail. And do you know if this time of year is a really crowded time or is it more low key? Thanks for all the help so far, Im sure I'll need more. :nerd: FUN IN THE SUN IN 19 DAYS!! Chris, I leave on the 29th there for a week. How long are you going?

[chrism]

I leave on the 15th and arrive home the 23rd.

Regarding provisioning... On past charters we've allowed The Moorings to provision for us, and we've ended up with more food that we can deal with. The Ample Hamper in Road Town will deliver food right to your boat, and you can order what you want right from their website, http://www.amplehamper.com/. That's what we're doing this go-round. In the Abacos, we just went to the market and picked up what we needed. I'm not sure about the price difference, but I think it is worth it to have the food that you want.

Chris

[therapidone]

I thought I'd throw my $0.02 in here...we went thru the Moorings in the BVIs 7 or so years ago. Every time we dropped anchor rather than catching a mooring ball, I just put on my snorkle mask & fins & checked that everything was okay rather than wait and wait to see if we were going to drift. Of course, when you do anchor remember to leave enough room to swing around with the given amount of rode that you've dropped & not endanger the vessels that have already anchored before you.

We had the Moorings do a split provisioning and we had enough food (for 4) that we could have eaten all of our meals on board. Pay really close attention on the run down they give you of the boat; somebody didn't pay as close attention as he should have when it came to switching the valve configuration for the secondary water tank. We've vacationed on St. John a couple of times and fell in love with Francis Bay, but you may run into customs procedures if you sail into the USVIs & anchor or get out to go on the beach. Despite all the folks who go to Norman Island (Treasure Island caves, Willie-T's, etc.), there are some really nice, quiet bays in which to anchor and snorkle (or so I was advised by a resident and charter captain from St John, USVI, as we sailed around Norman Is. on his vessel, Breath) that can be found north and east of the Bight. By the way, we left Road Town & made for the Bight as our first day's sail like so many other bare-boaters!

Our best day of sailing was spending all day in the Atlantic north of Tortola while we sailed from North Sound of Virgin Gorda in a generally southwesterly trip (with mostly trailing winds) all the way to Jost Van Dyke. Because the Moorings doesn't outfit these charters with spinnaker poles to aid in a wing-and-wing downwind sailing configuration, we doused the main & just sailed with the genoa.

We made our trip at the end of May & beginning of June. The one thing that surprised me was how windy it got just about every night...blew like heck. One or two of those nights the wind was accompanied by some torrential rain--which necessitated closing up the hatches/ports & stewing in our own juices in the humidity rather than having to deal with soaking wet berths from the rain.

One other thing surprised me, more than any other type of libation, I got really silly when imbibing fruity, rum drinks! Enjoy your trip!

[chrism]

Figured I'd pop my head in and say hello to all from Cane Garden Bay, BVI. The weather is here, I wish you were beautiful... The wonders of WIFI.

Quite happy with Tortola Marine Managment thus far... Grocery stores seem to be everywhere, although smaller, they somehow have everything.

For the first time, we were taken out a "check sail" with the manager of the charter location. TMM does it with everyone... I must admit, five minutes out with him saved him from 30 minutes of explaining systems. Quite awesome.

Hopefully this weather holds over for you, Steve.

Chris
(temp) s/v Dav n Joy

[chrism]

Hello all - landed in San Juan from Tortola a few hours ago... Hanging out here until tomorrow morning's flight to Boston. Figured I'd post our itineray.

4/15 - Arrive Road Harbour, Tortola
4/16 - Boat check out/briefing - short sail to Cay Key. Great anchorage.
4/17 - Cane Garden Bay, Tortola - Eat at Myetts!
4/18 - Lunch hook at the Baths, then to North Sound, Virgin Gorda - Avoid the Bitter End! $$$$$$$$$$
4/19 - Anegada - Get permission to sail there. Quite awesome, great snorkeling. The Anegada Reef Hotel has great food and a great atmosphere.
4/20 - Soper's Hole - Ate at Pusser's, aka the Applebee's of the BVI's!
4/21 - Peter Island, nice and quiet.
4/22 - Quick power over to Road Harbour

Enjoy your trip, and be sure to post details of your travels. If you have a laptop, BVImarinewifi.com has service in many harbors. Be sure to pick up a high power wifi card if you want to use it, though. I have the digital charts of the Eastern Carribean, email me if you'd like a copy of them.

Chris

[Gordon McKenney]

We've chartered many times in the Virgin Islands and prefer chartering in the British Virgin Islands for several reasons. First, you'll want to spend most of your cruise in the BVI. Secondly, if you charter in the USVI you'll have to check in to customs and immigration upon entering the BVI and pay a cruising fee, which is already included when chartering from a BVI company. You'll also have to check out of BVI and check backin to USVI. However, if you are going to visit St. John, one of the USVI, you'll have to go throug this routine anyway.

If you're chartering for only a week, visiting Norman Island, The Baths on Virgin Gordon, The Bitter End Yacht Club, Cane Garden Bay, Yost Van Dyke, etc., you'll probably not have time to visit the USVI, although St. John is worth visiting.

As far as credentials, most charter companies ask that you fill in a form detailing your experience. They have never questioned my credenials, but I do have a lot of experience. I notice that when they check you out on the boat you've chartered and during the briefing, it probably would become obvious to them if you didn't know what you were doing. Hope this helps.

[windjunkee]

My wife and I chartered in the BVI a couple of years ago and a few notes:

1. We used Conch Charters in Roadtown. They have a fleet of older boats, not the same as Moorings. In our case, we chartered a Catalina 42 which was well maintained, completely operational. No problems at all and the staff there was amazing (although the hard fiberglass dink they gave us absolutely sucked, since it was so small, had a tiny engine and they had no options for us to even pay to upgrade to a better dingy) Their prices were almost HALF that of Moorings.
2. We did the split provisioning and didn't use even close to all the food they provided. Now, there were good restaurants at virtually every mooring and we just ended up eating out way more often than we had anticipated.
3. Be careful about anchoring. When on a mooring at Marina Kay, there was a Beneteau 50 anchored in the mooring field. During the evening, the wind clocked 180 degrees. The Beneteau's chain got tangled with another boat's mooring and they banged together for HOURS. I sat on deck with a flashlight and a boat hook, as the Bene was trying to break free and was revving the engine in reverse, with the stern aimed directly FOR THE BEAM OF OUR BOAT. If that thing had broken free, it would have rocketed toward me. The moorings are set for prescribed swing radius' and I understand that drastic windshift like that are not uncommon down there.

Looks like I will be going with Moorings, however, next year when we do a two week charter in Tonga. Except for Sunsail, which I understand to be on shaky ground there, Moorings is the only game in town.

Jim McCone
Voice of Reason E-32-2 hull #134

[chrism]

Conch Charters looked to have all ex-Moorings/Sunsail/Footloose Boats. Tortola Marine Managment has a bunch of boats, but they weren't built for bareboating.

Our boat, a Hunter 386 was BAREBONES. It had a fridge, depthsounder, speedometer, CD player. Autopilot and GPS? Nope!