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Winterizing

Malissa

Junior Member
I need some advice on winterizing my E29. I have an A 4 and I was wondering about the exhaust. Is there a plug to let out any water or do you just have to flush the system with antifreeze till it coumes out the exhaust on the transom? Also are there any problem areas that I need to address elswere in the winterizing process? This will be the first time winterizing a sailboat.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Your surmise is right on that there are two ways to prevent freezing water from cracking the metal. The first is to eliminate the water by opening all the drains in the engine manifold/block and the muffler (if you have a waterlift type). You did not say if you have raw water cooling or a closed system with a heat exchanger, but method number two works for either one -- put a bucket of "pink" antifreeze (normally specified for drinking water systems) near where you can put in the end of the hose, or extension of that hose, from the engine thru-hull valve. I hope the hose is where you can disconnect it without barking too many knuckles. You probably will need a couple gallons at the most. Have a friend in the cockpit start the engine up at idle while you hold the end of the hose in the pink antifreeze.... and shut it down the moment some pink appears in the exhaust cooling water coming out the stern. That's it. Leave the engine thru-hull valve closed, of course, and reinstall the hose onto the valve. In the spring you just open that valve and start 'er up again like usual.
So, the idea is to either drain out all the outside water so that it cannot freeze and expand and break the metal, *or* introduce antifreeze throughout the cooling system that will not be affected by the cold.
Don't forget to reward the captain with a hot buttered rum when the job is completed...
Loren in Portland, OR
Olson 34 Far Side
 

bill nixon

Junior Member
winterizing A4

I think you received good advise, this was my second year to go through this. This year I aquired a PVC tee fitting with a screw cap ( garden hose thread ) on one side and installed it in the intake hose that goes directly to the water pump. This tee was one of several included in a kit mfgr'd by Prestone, sold in auto stores. At the time to install antifreeze, I shut off the thru hull valve, opened the tee and attached a 3' section of old garden hose. I primed the hose out on the deck and stuck in it the jug, started her up and sucked a gallon thru and shut down. I tape a pipe elbow to the transom exhaust outlet with a bucket under it so I can watch for the coolant while up on my cradle. I did use the blue juice this year, has a lower rating than the pink.

In the same line to the pump, I installed an intake inline screen fitting with clear cover from West Marine, to watch and prove flow, even when pumping lake water. ( Our lake is getting cleaner! ) Back to the tee fitting, before I have the boat lifted in, I run water back in to the system by priming the hose with water then sticking in a bucket or two. I reduce the chance of a no-start at the dock this way and if there are any starting problems, it gives me an opportunity for a fix on my schedule.

One last thing, I asked around and found that no one removed the thermostat. I do,and bolt the cover back on, pinch off the starboard hose to the cap to force antifreeze thru the block in lieu of around the thermostat, which may have cooled off and closed down. The thermostat is out when I initially kick over the engine to pump the fresh water out after I ve hauled out.

I just pulled out, winter in coming in fast and hard on Lake Erie, hope you are out too. Sea Gull E-27 # 225

Have a warm winter.
 

Walter Pearson

Member III
Melissa,
I have a somewhat more conservative approach - maybe because I'm further north and it can get to 40-50 below where my boat is wintered. And this is probably after the fact, but for the record:

I would not use RV, potable water system antifreeze. I use the propylene glycol-based, (more eco-friendly) antifreeze meant for engine coolant and storage. It has corrosion inhibitors and is meant to be diluted to a desired protection temperature. You can't go by color - there are reds, greens and blues that are available. Make sure it is not the common auto antifreeze which is ethylene glcol-based.

As Loren says, there are two ways to winterize and although the original engine manual prescribes complete draining, many now suggest it is better to leave the engine full of antifreeze to reduce corrosion. The engine antifreeze also seems to be slightly lubricating to the water pump impeller blades.

I adjust my antifreeze mixture first, so I want to get out as much water as possible to prevent any additional dilution. Most of the water comes out when the rear drain tube is opened. This is the one back near the water pump. Even more water comes out there when the forward plug is removed - it evidently provides a venting action. I also remove the plugs on the manifold side, but very little water ever exits there.

I have winterized without removing the thermostat, but I do now because it makes me at least feel like the antifreeze is getting in there more freely and it also gives me a yearly look inside the cooling system. If there is some crud visible or feelable, it might be time to flush next season. If you do remove it, remember the two nuts holding it on are also acting as head bolts, so should be torqued to 35 ft-lbs if you intend to run the engine with it removed. I do run it with the t'stat removed and a clamp on the bypass hose when I draw in the antifreeze. As soon as some antifreeze comes out the exhaust, I spray fogging oil into the carb until the engine dies. I remove the spark plugs and add more fogging oil to each cylinder and manually crank the engine a couple of revolutions to distribute it before replacing the plugs.

I cover all openings (breather, carb, etc.) with aluminized plastic to keep any moisture out. I also plug the exhaust fitting on the transom. (Some people cover the distributor and loosen the alternator belt, but I have not done that.)

You don't say what type of muffler you have, but if it is the old standpipe style, I would try to drain that too. Sometimes access is difficult and I winterized several years without doing this so it may be overkill. (When I had a new standpipe made, I put an extra fitting at the bottom for draining - but then I also made a large cut-out in my quarterberth so I can get at it.)

If you have winterized with RV antifreeze, I would recommend testing the mixture now in the block. You will need an antifreeze tester specifically made for propylene glycol. If the -50 RV stuff is diluted even a small amount, it can really affect the protection temperature.

If you leave the engine intake valve closed as suggested above, make sure you have allowed it to drain first after hauling. I made that mistake once and had to replace the freeze-cracked valve in the spring in my slip by pulling the mast over until the intake was above the waterline. I just leave it open now.
 
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