Cheap Increase in Speed

Just wanted to speak briefly about a fantastic experience I had this last weekend. I race my Ericson 27, using A-Sails on an overlength spinn pole. We have been toying with the idea of also flying a staysail, as it would work great either combined with the jib on a jib reach, or with the A-Sail on a reach. Anyway, long story short, my friend Christopher found the perfect sail for this job 2 weeks ago for $70 at the used marine store at Shilshole. We now have a Star jib that we use for this purpose, and the best part is that it is unrated sail area. We created a hard point to tack the sail to midpoint on the "J". We are consistently seeing a .2-.5 knot increase in speed with this new combination. I am really looking forward to the nice long reach back to Victoria in Swiftsure.

Nigel
Ericson 27- Green Card

Attaboy!

Great going! Some more tips: When yu have the brezze from about 85-140 apparent, tack the staysail as you have set it up. When the breeze goes aft of about 140, move the tack to the windward rail-I think the stanchion base of the first stanchion aft of the bow pulpit is about right. This gets the sail out to windward of the main (which will begin to blanket the staysail as you sail deeper). You will also find that the staysail is not very effective below about10 knots true (maybe 6-8 on the closer angles), The windier it is the more it helps. These staysails are also excellent "windseekers" When the breeze goes to zero (or boatspeed to zero), take the staysail to the genoa tack fitting and hoist it loose luff. lead the sheet to the rail so the sheet angle bisects the clew and would intersect the headstay about 1/2 way up. MAKE sure the sheet goes through a block and TO A WINCH. Holding it by hand does not transfer the enrgy to the boat. This works whether you had a headsail or spinnaker up. When the speed creeps up to 2 knots (not before), you can sneak the kite or genoa (according to the wind angle) back up and off you go!
Finally, you learned what many people have not figured out yet: generally speaking, A-sails are ALWAYS better than symetrical kites-provided they are full sized and shaped properly. The misconception that they are only for reaching comes from the fact that "sprit" boats must reach with them (as opposed to sailing deeper). Using a pole effectively (as you do) allows you to sail deep!

Good job!

More staysails

When using a staysail under a spinnaker, always set the lead position SLIGHTLY aft of what would be "correct", where the top and bottom telltales break evenly. The reason that you want an open leech is because if the staysail is overtrimmed, it will "suck" the air from the spinnaker, possibly collapse it, and always make it harder to trim. By setting the lead a tad aft and sailing it slightly loose, you will get the most from the kite. Anytime the spinnaker collapses, dump the staysail sheet first, then recover the kite, then re-trim the little sail.
If you wish to try it under a headsail (genoa staysail), tack it on the centerline, and be sure to get enough halyard tension so the dfraft is very clearly in the front 35-40% of the sail. You will likely have the Genoa out on the rail (you are reaching, after all), so you can lead the little sail to the inboard track. I don't know about this particular sail, but when we design genoa staysails for the Ericsons, we build them to actually lead and trim on the cabin top-but work with what you have.
If you have a backstay adjuster, keep it snug when doing the 2 headsail combo. You have added a stress point where the staysail is attached to the front of the mast (regardless of which halyard or topping lift you use), and you will want to make sure the rig does not pump or invert When deep reaching or running you can ease the backstay as normal-unless you are in very big waves and slamming. If this is the case, put some backstay load on. This last part is VERY generalized, but significant. As always, you can reach me directly for a more detailed review. Enjoy!!

Hi Seth,

Question. E 35-2. I have never sailed her as a cutter but I know she was before I owned her. There is a tang welded on the front of the mast for attatching the stay/halyrd, but no sign of running backs. Were/are these boats sailed with out counter support for the mast ? The old pictures I've seen have a very large overlapping staysail to the cabin top. Is this the type of staysail I would use with an "A" sail or should it be a shorter foot. I would not be useing an over sized pole as I dont want the ratting hit.
Thanks

Phil

35 cutters

Hi Phil,

Yes, the 35 was very often sailed as a "cutter" with a Jib Top of 140-160 percent-depending on rating considerations. For today's world I would use 150-155%. Under the JT was a Genoa staysail which was either hanked onto a removable stay set on the tang you described, or the staysail had a wire luff and was set on the topping lift/halyard-OR the same wire luff sail can be set from one of the Genoa halyards. This Genoa staysail usually was sheeted to the cabin top, and is NOT the ideal staysail to fly under a spinnaker. The guys who were doing this has several staysails. For the Spinnaker they used a taller, skinnier type of staysail-either a "tallboy", which is now sort of obsolete, or a "daisy" staysail-now considered the better choice under a kite. What has evolved is that spinnaker staysails have been found to be most efficient when they are high aspect and with a short foot.

Some folks used to (and still do)carry a "dual" staysail , which is a combination spinnaker staysail and Genoa staysail. Basically you design the full hoist staysail, and install a second tack ring about 1-3 feet up (basically a reef point). Sometimes the geometry works out so that the clew ends up at the right spot by just lowering the sail to the new tack, and sometimes a second clew patch and ring are needed-so you would have a "real" reef set at the tack and clew. This way you have a spinnaker staysail and Genoa staysil. This version would use a wire (or spectra) luff.

Although in the past, some folks did fit the inner forestay, I think in today's world that is not necessary, and certainly makes tacking easier. The rig is strong enough so that in most conditions running backs are not needed (but I might install fittings for use in extreme conditions).

The trick to the 35 in this configuration is that it won't point as high as one using a decksweeper genoa, but by cracking off 5 degrees and going faster, you get better VMG to windward, and it works out. I would use this on an offshore race. For round the buoys, because tacking is slower and you tack so often that you never get to top speed for very long, I would opt for the conventional set up (around the buoys).
The shape of these Jib Tops were slightly flatter than normal (typically Jib Tops are also known as "Reachers" and are quite full).
Some of these guys had #1 and #2 Jib Tops for different wind speeds. Another benefit is during a headsail change you can leave the staysail up, which minimizes the loss during a change.
Let's go off the group site for more specifics about the sails if you need more info.
Cheers

Nigel,

How did you create the 'hard point' for the tack? Do you have provision to carry the tension through the V-berth and down to the hull? Can you provide approximate dimensions of the staysail?

I don't race, but have often thought a staysail would be nice for heavy weather. Good Old Boat had an article on an E29 that had an added inner forestay that tied into the hull. No mention of running backstays though and wonder if they would be needed.

Walter Pearson

Hard point

The traditional location is 1/3 of the way back from the bow to the mast (.3 X J). For a small spinnaker staysail, a simple padeye with backing plate will likely do.
For an inner forestay and an "upwind" staysail, you really need to tie the deck down to the hull. There are numerous articles on this.

Regarding running backs to counter the inner forestay, technically you should install simple tangs at the same height as the inner forestay attaches, and run them as far aft and as close to centerline as you can (although you will probably end up using the outboard track). A simple 3:1 purchase at the end of the runners will be fine for this purppose, or you can run the through a block to a windward winch. You won't need a lot of load-just take up against the inner forestay's deflection-if any.

Cheers

I'm preparing my "new" '77 35-2 for launch in three weeks and have a lot of questions to answer as I become familar with the gear and sails that came with the boat. It has an apparently well used staysail w/wire luff. From my casual inspection I'd guess that it attaches to a movable eye on a recessed track on the foredeck. I have not noticed a specific halyard so it's likely that it's raised from the masthead. If all of this makes any sense can I assume that the rig strength is not a concern (ie running B/S needed)?
Also, what is the point of having an adjustable track for the attachment? Third question, is the staysail a decent heavy weather alternative (the weight of the sailcloth seems to be around 5-6oz). I have a headsail tape without roller furling. I do have a 108 Gen. with one set of reefing points so I'm not sure which setup would be better in a good blow. Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks
JCC

35 tuning info

The staysail with the wire luff can be flown from one of the genoa halyards, and you are correct that runners are not required on this very tough mast. In fact, when loaded up, this will pull the middle of the mast forward and help bend the mast and flatten the main.

The padeye on deck is the right place to tack it-the tracks you sometimes see are so that the spinnaker pole forguy attach point can be moved as need to make room for folding sails on deck, and sometimes to fine tune the tack of a spinnaker staysail-but not the genoa staysail-no need to worry about that.

The staysail is an OK heavy air alternative-especially if not closehauled. For best pointing, a conventional #3 like you have and the fullest main you can hold is the fastest combo. Reef the main when the full main and #3 are too much sail. When reaching, sometimes a 130 and reefed main is fast on this model, but for pointing, hold off on reefing until you have no smaller headsails to use. Also, sheeting the #3 inboard is the best way to go uphill. Sometimes with a 110% (+ or-) it has to sheets around the shrouds-costing you pointing ability.

Your assumptions are good-contact me directly for more detailed info.
Good sailing!