Windlass remote?

[Tomfoolery]

Hi!
I’m planning the windlass install for my 34-2 and have stumbled across cheap remote controls on amazon.
For 20-30$ it looks like I can get a wireless remote….
Anyone tried one of these yet?
Any feedback?
Cheers

 

[David Grimm]

I have not. My windless has wired controls at the helm as well as on the bow. Wireless may seem like a good idea now, until its dark, raining, blowing hard and decides not to work. Maybe I'm old school but wired is pretty inexpensive and probably worth the effort. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Tomfoolery]

Agree! I’ll be keeping a hard wire connection, just be nice to have a remote.

 

[Shawn Brooks]

I installed one, but have deck switches as well. With the remote, I can retrieve the rode from the helm without drama or help.

That said, they are cheaply made--not waterproof, etc. But they do work quite well. And when the day comes when the don't--well, up to the bow I go...not a big deal.

 

[Pete the Cat]

I think having multiple ways of energizing your windlass is important. I have a wired remote at the bow (outlet in a dorade) and another in the cockpit because that is where I seem to need to have control--in sight of chain and windlass--sometimes right over the anchor and sometimes with power and gear management. I would not trust deck switches generally as they seem to be set up for corrosion and failure. One thing that is important in windlass maintenance is to regularly clean ALL the electrical contacts all the way back to the engine grounds (because of the need for very high amps for short periods). Most of my. windlass "failures" have been electrical corrosion because low current flows through all these switches (particularly the reversing solenoid) even when not energized fully. I service all the connections each season and it has helped.

 

[Tomfoolery]

I think having multiple ways of energizing your windlass is important. I have a wired remote at the bow (outlet in a dorade) and another in the cockpit because that is where I seem to need to have control--in sight of chain and windlass--sometimes right over the anchor and sometimes with power and gear management. I would not trust deck switches generally as they seem to be set up for corrosion and failure. One thing that is important in windlass maintenance is to regularly clean ALL the electrical contacts all the way back to the engine grounds (because of the need for very high amps for short periods). Most of my. windlass "failures" have been electrical corrosion because low current flows through all these switches (particularly the reversing solenoid) even when not energized fully. I service all the connections each season and it has helped.

Makes sense!

 

[Bolo]

I never have a windlass failure with my Lofrans horizontal MANUAL windlass. Takes me a bit longer but works every time.

 

[Donnie]

Maybe these pics will help, the install on my 34-2

 

[Tomfoolery]

Maybe these pics will help, the install on my 34-2

That’s a great looking install. That aluminum frame is obviously sturdy enough to support the windlass. Does it flex much under use? I wasn’t sure that the lip would be strong enough to support the loads.

I’m going with a horizontal on the front half of the locker. Figure I’ll tie it in using flat bay bolted to the two cleats.

 

[Donnie]

Run your

That’s a great looking install. That aluminum frame is obviously sturdy enough to support the windlass. Does it flex much under use? I wasn’t sure that the lip would be strong enough to support the loads.

I’m going with a horizontal on the front half of the locker. Figure I’ll tie it in using flat bay bolted to the two cleats.

run your wash down water line while running the big electrical cable that’s half the job

 

[Tomfoolery]

Run your

run your wash down water line while running the big electrical cable that’s half the job

What size cable did you go with?

 

[Donnie]

What size cable did you go with?

Number 2 And 80 amp breaker 1000 watt windlass 80 ‘ of 5/16 chain to 175 ‘ 5/8 rode that goes down thru a hauls pipe