Throttle Cable slipping [Solved]

[plorette]

The throttle on my e-29 (1972) is slipping. When I power up over 2000 rpm, it will slip back and settle at around 2000 rpm. Is this a simple adjustment? Have not had the boat very long and I am not sure where the adjustment should be made. Engine is a Universal M3-20. Is the adjustment on the inside mechanism, on the lever itself (there appears to be an access hole under the throttle lever for an allen key) or is it at the engine where the cable ends.

Much appreciated.

Paul.

 

[Glyn Judson]

Stop that slipping.

Paul, Failing any other way that might be suggested, Morse (the cable manufacturers) make a cable brake, their part number 44386. I's a compact, formed, stainless steel strap with threaded, 1/4-20 hole, 1" bolt and jam nut. The strap is formed to cradle your cable while the head of the bolt can be micro adjusted down on it and the jam nut locking everything in place. Think mini C-clamp and you've got it. Any local chandler should have or be able to order it for you. I've had one on my throttle cable for years and if my fading memory serves, it cost me less than $12.00. Place the cable brake anywhere convenient and you'll be off and running at well over 2,000 RPM in no time. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA

 

[Tom Metzger]

I've also used electrical split bolt connectors which are available at any good hardware store.

 

[Rick R.]

Ours did the same thing until I located the cable brake and tightened it a little. It was located on the throttle cable about 2ft from where it enters the engine compartment.


Two minute job!

 

[Frank Langer]

So are these devices simply clamped onto the cable housing to apply slight pressure to the wire inside? If not, could someone explain where and how they should be installed.
Thanks alot.
Frank

 

[Rick R.]

Yes they are on the outside of the cable.

 

[Glyn Judson]

How are Morse cable brakes attached?

Frank and all, The Morse cable brake easily attaches around the outside of the vinyl sheathe. Here's a link to what they look like http://www.amazon.com/Teleflex-Morse-Control-Cable-Brake/dp/B002PKBO5I Only this summer I did I have to adjust ours for the second time since installing it close to 15 years ago. Gathering the wrenches took longer than the adjustment. I loosened the jam nut, tightened the bolt imperceptibly and reset the nut. The brake is conveniently located in our boat beneath the cockpit sole and easily accessed through this massive Bomar man way: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...chanintel_google&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=27086 Our Bomar hatch is identical but without the hinges. As an aside, I bought and installed the hatch as a safety measure given that the two 1 1/2" seacocks for the cockpit drain hoses are right under there and well aft of the engine. My logic followed that if under power and one of the hoses or fittings failed, I had the prospect of burning all the flesh off my chest and stomach in order to get into that dark space to begin to save the boat some way. Now if something happens back there, I can simply pop the hatch and hop down in with the right tools or wooden plugs, etc. Hope this helps, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA

 

[Frank Langer]

Glyn, thanks for your helpful reply. So just to ensure I get it right, do I tighten the bolt end down onto the vinyl cable cover with just enough pressure to create some friction for the cable inside, and then snug the nut down on the bracket top to hold it in place? Does it matter where on the cable the cable brake is located--ie. is it better closer to the engine or under the cockpit or elsewhere?
Thanks again!
Frank

 

[Glyn Judson]

Cable brake location.

Frank, You're absolutely correct, the head of the bolt comes into contact with the vinyl and then some, creating just enough pressure to prevent the inner cable from slipping. When I readjusted that brake a few weeks ago, it was so little added pressure that I wasn't even sure it would have any effect but it did. Once you find that "sweet spot" it won't take much more over the life of the cable to keep it in adjustment. The idea I guess is not to mash the daylights out of the outer sheathe and in turn, the inner cable, but more so to find the point where the cable brake distorts the sheathe enough to just narrow the gap inside enough to cause the slightest friction on the cable. As to your second question, you bring up a good point that I can't answer regarding the location of the brake on the length of the cable. I can only tell you that of the two cables I've used that brake on, it was generally in the same place, about 2 to 3 feet forward of the pedestal base below deck. Hope this answers your questions, Glyn

 

[Frank Langer]

Thanks, Glyn, for the very helpful information. It all makes sense to me now.

Frank

 

[Glyn Judson]

Cable brake.

Frank, Don't dismiss Tom's gerat suggestion, the split bolt connector idea. It looks like a dandy and I'll bet way cheaper. He says that it has worked for him so I assume that it's wide enough to fit over our cables, which is good enough of a recommendation for me. So now you have two options. Glyn

 

[Frank Langer]

Thanks, Glyn. I agree that the split bolt connector looks like an interesting and likely cheaper option. I was even wondering if a very small hose clamp would put enough pressure on the vinyl casing to do the job...so you can see I'm pondering possibilities til I find the best option at an economical price.
Thanks again!
Frank

 

[Glyn Judson]

Clamp oprions.

Frank, If memory serves and it's rapidly not doing so any more, I think I tried a small hose clamp way back when and it didn't work. The problem was getting enough torque using the screw (or hex) to compress the strap far enough before the threads slipped and the clamp sprung loose. That clamp along with my brilliant idea got tossed into the bin. Before I knew Morse cable brake even existed, I tried a small stainless U-clamp, think muffler pipe clamp except way smaller and you've got it, but all that did was to create a dimple in the sheathe which ended up distorting the cable to the point it wouldn't work any more. Too loose and it and the cable would slip, too tight and everything got bound up. I did get it to work after a fashion and it seemed to be OK but needed frequent adjustment. It was at that point that I found out about the Morse cable brake and wasn't ready to do any more "cheap" experimentation looking for yet another alternative. So I installed the brake and at some time afterward, lost the cable all together where the U-clamp had done its previous damage. At the risk of not wanting to ever upstage Loren, that's my one cent's worth of experience so take it for what it's worth. Glyn

 

[Frank Langer]

Thanks for this extra information--likely saves me some time and fruitless efforts.
Frank

 

[mherrcat]

There is something like that on my throttle cable. It's near the throttle lever on the engine, for ease of access I suppose. Looks more like the pic Tom posted IIRC. Always wondered what it was for...