Replace Stay under a furler?

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Bruce, Nick,

If you have the older Harken furlers, I have detailed pictures of the disassembly and re-build process. Unless you have access to a yard with a swaging tool, you're forced to replace one of the swages (upper or lower) with a Hi-mod or Norseman fitting. Hi-mods seem to be recommended these days.
 

bigd14

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Harken seems to have no problem with people using mechanical fittings on the lower. They simply say to add a washer. I worried about mechanical vs swage for awhile but ultimately I was more worried that I wouldn’t get the measurements right when ordering a swaged forestay since I was installing a new furler at the same time. I used a swage fitting on top and a Sta Lok fitting on the bottom.


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Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
I like the idea of swaged at the top and mechanical fitting at the bottom. Seems to give more flexibility and it's something us normal people can be involved with. I also heard mechanical Fittings are more corrosion resistant, but not sure if that's true. I used a Norseman on the lower end of the backstay on my 25+ when I had to shorten it to add a backstay adjuster. I really liked being able to install it in the field by myself. Much better than removing it and taking it to a rigger. Does anyone have any negative experience with mechanical Fittings?
 

Pete the Cat

Member III
I like the idea of swaged at the top and mechanical fitting at the bottom. Seems to give more flexibility and it's something us normal people can be involved with. I also heard mechanical Fittings are more corrosion resistant, but not sure if that's true. I used a Norseman on the lower end of the backstay on my 25+ when I had to shorten it to add a backstay adjuster. I really liked being able to install it in the field by myself. Much better than removing it and taking it to a rigger. Does anyone have any negative experience with mechanical Fittings?
I screwed up my first Norseman effort. It was a long time ago--so I don't remember what was wrong, but I got meticulous about reading the instructions (Harken does a very nice job of explaining how to do this in some of their furling installation manuals) ever since. I trust mechanical fittings more than swages. The only rigging failure I ever had was on a recently fabricated swaged lower--after a few months it had somehow cracked and parted (in the night, in a rough crossing). I suppose I should not draw any generalization from one experience, but when you tighten a mechanical fitting, there is something satisfying about knowing what is in there and how it is secured. I have sailed a lot of boats as deliveries, many with old swaged rigging and never had any other problem in 45 years. I know that some of my boatyard friends think that swages will crack if the rig is left up in a freezing climate and they used to put Lanacote or beeswax in them (after they are swaged) to prevent this.
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
The original Harken furlers have an integral turnbuckle that the drum rotates around. If replacing an old Harken furler, you also typically have to add a traditional headstay turnbuckle and adjust the headstay length accordingly.
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