Removal of fixed port lights

[peaman]

Apparently, previous owner figured that the only way to keep a fixed light from leaking is to fill every crevass with sealant. It didn't work, and so I am now struggling with removing them for a proper re-installation.

First question: how are they put together? Are there two aluminum extrusions, or three? I have removed the inner flange, but cannot tell what is still in place.

Second question: if I remove the exterior gasket, will I be able to then remove the glass? Is the glass held in place by that gasket, or is it held within a couple of aluminum extrusions?

Third and final question: what the most effective way to remove these when so severely over-caulked? I'm afraid to use much heat, for fear of breaking the glass. No real worries about the teak panel, as it's in bad shape already (2023 project).

 

[gargrag]

From my own experience, glass won’t come out. The rubber gasket is u shaped and contains the glass in the cavity. There are two aluminum parts on each portligh

We did this same job of removing all the portlights, clean everything. Powder coat the frames and then use a catalina re glazing kit to re assemble and install

 

[Christian Williams]

Was the leaking confined to the caulked mounting of the unit? If the glass/gasket glazing didn't leak, you might not have to reglaze.

To ese removal., my new favorite caulk softener is "Anti-Bond 2015." Expensive but it works.

I've have used both Brightside paint and hardware-store spray paint on the interior decorative covers, a ten-minute job that worked fine.

 

[peaman]

From my own experience, glass won’t come out. The rubber gasket is u shaped and contains the glass in the cavity. There are two aluminum parts on each portlight

Apparently, you have a 1981 E25+. My 1987 E32-3 outer frame does not appear to be split top-and-bottom, but instead appears to be one piece when viewed from the exterior. Additionally, your picture shows only parts which are on the exterior, and does not show an interior aluminum part. From that, I assume that the design of the port lights are different for our two boats. Thanks for responding, in any case.

 

[peaman]

Was the leaking confined to the caulked mounting of the unit? If the glass/gasket glazing didn't leak, you might not have to reglaze.

To ese removal., my new favorite caulk softener is "Anti-Bond 2015." Expensive but it works.

I've have used both Brightside paint and hardware-store spray paint on the interior decorative covers, a ten-minute job that worked fine.

I haven't been able to study the exact nature of the leak, since it shows only very little water seepage, but the plywood panel is literally rotted at the aft-most corner over the nav station. Scrape it away with fingernail rotted.

I'll find a source for the Anti-Bond and hope for the best. As for the rotted panel, I'll just fill with epoxy for this season and hope the new curtains will conceal my shame.

 

[Christian Williams]

One of the sneaky bits is the tendency of leaks to enter around the ports and run behind the teak veneer, rather than down the face of it where it would be obvious. So seal the edges of the wood. More on the veneer job:

E32-3 - Portlights and Veneer

The opening ports on Thelonious were by Bomar. They were mechanically sound, but the lenses looked like Lebowski had dropped a bowling ball on them. In addition to cracks and crazes, they were fogged. Bomar lenses, unfortunately, cannot be...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[peaman]

Expensive but it works.

Yikes! At $400/pint, it is pricey! I hope the 1.2 oz can does the trick.

 

[cdh4088]

Here is a fantastic product to patch non structural wood, or even re-laminate plywood that is starting to come apart: Liquid wood
Its a wicking epoxy that soaks into crumbly wood and hardens it all up. works great on plywood delam. I wouldnt use it for bulkhead or chainplate repairs, however. Worked great on the deteriorated wood surrounding my portlights. It soaks in much better than a regular epoxy.

 

[peaman]

Here is a fantastic product

That looks like it was made for the problem I have. Thanks!

 

[Frank Langer]

That looks like it was made for the problem I have. Thanks!

That product looks good, but is expensive. I bought a similar product for a similar repair, in a much smaller container, different brand for only about $20, and it worked really well. I can't remember the brand, but it may be worth shopping around a bit. I bought it at a plastics/epoxy supply store, but I think good hardware stores have it too.
Frank

 

[bigd14]

If you have a oscillating tool like a Fein Multimaster, a straight blade (no teeth) works well to cut through the caulk with minimal damage to frame and boat. A couple layers of blue painters tape around the portlight protects the gelcoat and lets you know before the blade damages it.

Here is a thread on the process that may also be helpful.

Tips for removing original portlights

Getting the outside screws out isn't too terrible. But there are two sets of two screws inside of the frame which are a real PITA. The biggest problem is that I can't even get straight access with a screwdriver. The screwdriver has to go in at an angle and not have a good fit on the screw...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[Tin Kicker]

See my Post #12 here: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/wanted-vinyl-glazing-for-fixed-ports-3-16-glass.19511/

Note that once hardware store silicone sealant has been on a surface, NOTHING will permanently stick to it again, till that surface is removed because the silicone gets into the porosity of the surface. If it is on the frame, that area needs to be stripped or at least sanded and if on fiberglass, the area must be abraded slightly.

When re-installing, use butyl (white, gray, black, whatever) and a proper glazing material like DOW 795 Structural Glazing Sealer. Grainger carries the DOW products if nobody else in your area.