Racor R24P

[David Grimm]

Does anyone know if Racor discontinued the housing for this filter. West or Defender couldn't tell me definitively and Racor is closed until Monday. My original water seperator bowl drain is leaking. The rubber hat type oring is shot and I cant locate a replacement. I have found the entire bowl but not for the 220 series filter and for the cost I would rather replace the whole unit with the little primer pump. I have 4 spare filters lying around and didn't want to go to the 15 or 30 series housing and not be able to use my spares. Ugh. The 500 won't fit in my engine compartment nicely Any suggestions?

Dave

 

[Loren Beach]

IF.... you do decide that it is worth considering the upgrade to the larger 500 series, you might consider doing something similar to my change/upgrade, and finding a different location. Our smaller Racor was difficult to work with, inside the engine compartment. I found a nearby place for the larger Racor where it is much much easier to service it without spilling diesel fuel.

O34 - New Location: Racor & Lift Pump

As a part of the engine replacement project, we decided to move the Racor and electric lift pump out of the engine bay/compartment. Current ABYC "rules" seem to demand a metal bowl under the clear filter bowl, and this seems to defeat its purpose...

ericsonyachts.org

Every EY model will be a bit different, but it might be worth tracing the hose path from tank to engine to see if there is a better location for this important item.

 

[David Grimm]

Loren, It does look appealing however the extra work and another $100 for a filter I may change 3 times in the next 10 years may not be worth it. Never made much of a mess changing mine now. Yours does look pretty though !

 

[Tin Kicker]

With the requirement for bowls and other fuel parts to be fire resistant (ie metal) a lot of these old models were dropped, so it would not be surprising if this was.

That said, I've had good luck going to industrial hydraulic supply places that sell for bulldozers and such.
In the Mid-Atlantic we have a chain called Colliflower Total Hose & Fittings.

 

[David Grimm]

btw. That little metal shield is silly, would probably absorb the heat from a fire and melt the plastic bowl its attached to faster then if it wasn't there at all. For what they're charging for these filters it would make more sense to make the bowl out of pyrex glass. Pyrex is good to 425 - 450 degrees!

 

[Alan Gomes]

Loren, It does look appealing however the extra work and another $100 for a filter I may change 3 times in the next 10 years may not be worth it. Never made much of a mess changing mine now. Yours does look pretty though !

But if it clogs at an inopportune time, such as in rough conditions (which is when these do tend to clog) you can change the Racor 500 filter *far more easily* than those smaller filters that screw on to the bottom of the housing (exactly where you DON'T want it), and do so without slopping diesel fuel all over the place. Plus, because the size of the filter is so much larger, the chances of it clogging in the first place are much reduced. You will also save money on filters, which are considerably less expensive--though it certainly would take a while to recoup the additional cost of the 500.

BTW: I'd change out the filter more frequently than every 3+ years. Even if it isn't clogged, the filter material degrades over time. Plus, with the Racor 500, filter changes are so much easier that you wouldn't mind doing it! (I've got mine plumbed to prime with an electric pump, so it's especially simple.)

 

[David Grimm]

But if it clogs at an inopportune time, such as in rough conditions (which is when these do tend to clog) you can change the Racor 500 filter *far more easily* than those smaller filters that screw on to the bottom of the housing (exactly where you DON'T want it), and do so without slopping diesel fuel all over the place. Plus, because the size of the filter is so much larger, the chances of it clogging in the first place are much reduced. You will also save money on filters, which are considerably less expensive--though it certainly would take a while to recoup the additional cost of the 500.

BTW: I'd change out the filter more frequently than every 3+ years. Even if it isn't clogged, the filter material degrades over time. Plus, with the Racor 500, filter changes are so much easier that you wouldn't mind doing it! (I've got mine plumbed to prime with an electric pump, so it's especially simple.)

Alan, I have an Facet electric pump as well. This has me wondering if that primer pump at the top of the filter was something that was needed prior to the electric pump? Were the electric pumps stock or do you think they were added later on for ease of priming?

I only said 3 years because of my new aluminum tank!

 

[jtsai]

David, you may have better luck locating hard to find Racor filter parts in your local powerboat boatyard parts stores. They have more fuel related products in stock for obvious reasons.

 

[Alan Gomes]

Alan, I have an Facet electric pump as well. This has me wondering if that primer pump at the top of the filter was something that was needed prior to the electric pump? Were the electric pumps stock or do you think they were added later on for ease of priming?

I only said 3 years because of my new aluminum tank!View attachment 41778

I don't know the answer to your question about the primer pump built into the filter housing. All I can say is that those never seem to work worth a darn, in my experience at least.

I have a Facet electric fuel pump for my engine, which I installed to replace the mechanical lift pump on my Yanmar 1GM. I have a switch in the engine compartment that I use to energize it when changing filters. I have a valve that allows me to switch the fuel output to the injector return line for when I want to prime an empty filter. Once the filter is primed, I switch the valve so as to send the fuel to the engine (normal operating position), crack the bleed screw to make sure there's no air (and usually there isn't), tighten the bleed screw down while it's still energized, shut off the switch, and then call it good. Very simple.

 

[patrscoe]

David,
I was in a similar situation last Fall. I was fighting the smallest air leak for over a year. I replaced all the fuel lines, fittings and system except for my Racor housing and bowl. I had the same exact Racor housing that you have. Finally, I found a leak at the plastic bleeder on top of the housing and the plastic bowl was slightly warped from over-tightening. I am also guessing that I had a tiny hair line crack in the housing.
I ended up installing the Racor 500 series. Purchased 6 fuel filter package on amazon. If you are counting dollars, in the end, the Racor 500 filters are much cheaper and smaller to store on the sailboat.
I also installed a switch at the electric lift pump (from advice on this forum). It made bleeding the air much easier.

 

[David Grimm]

Ok so just got off the phone with Racor. If you are using the R24P and have the old style bowl you can replace it with the 230R10 and your stock of old R24P filters will fit. If you just want to replace the old rubber orings and drain hat type oring the gasket kit is RK20075-01. I went with the whole 230R10 being that the old unit has been in there working fine for many decades. It will complement the new fuel tank nicely!

 

[David Grimm]

Little video on the Racor that I ordered.

 

[G Kiba]

Little video on the Racor that I ordered.

R24S is 2 micron (brown)
R24T is 10 micron (blue)
R24S is 30 micron (red)

 

[G Kiba]

Little video on the Racor that I ordered.

David, I have the same unit and it seems to work fine for now. I think Loren or someone on the forum had air leaks from micro-cracks in the aluminum casting. Could be a production run (material or process) issue affecting some of the units. I intend to use mine until it fails knowing that if I have problems with air in the system the Racor unit is a potential source. I recall that the cracks were near the inlet/outlet fittings. Another reason for cracks in that area could be worn tooling used to cut the treads or someone over torquing the fittings. If it fails on way... maybe smear silicon around the area of the fittings and threads for a temporary fix.