NMEA 2000 power question

[bigd14]

Nothing wrong with adding a sub panel as needed if you can find the space.

Traditional Metal DC Panel - 3 Positions - Blue Sea Systems

The Traditional Metal Panels are suited for use as extension to existing panels or as full replacements.

www.bluesea.com

 

[bsangs]

Jeff,

your comment made me realize an important point I don't think anyone has mentioned yet. running any new system to a breaker sounds easy, but if you don't have a spare breaker it can cascade to a much bigger problem. A lot of us have replaced the original Ericson panels with newer Blue Sea or similar panels that have a lot more breakers. I can see how someone could read this thread and others like it and wonder where everyone is landing all this new equipment on their old power distribution panels. To someone with an old panel, putting everything on a dedicated circuit would sound crazy.

Fortunately I have a few open DC spots on my Ericson panel - and even more on the AC side. Only thing I've changed on the original panel is a new battery switch, replaced the 12-volt "cigarette" lighter receptacle, and added Blue Sea System labels, since the original labeling didn't always match up. The indicator lights don't all work, but I'm fine with that, at least they're not always siphoning off battery power. (Previous owner added that one odd white switch for the autopilot, which drives my OCD nuts, but I try to be zen about it.) I'm not sure why the NMEA network or at least the chart plotter wasn't run to the panel in the first place.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Thanks guys. I think we're going to be good for panel space for now. The old (black) accessory switch here was for the old radar. We don't have a fridge so that's free. I should be on the lookout for a switch for that last empty slot so we'll have one if we need it. A full electric rebuild is probably a couple years in our future.

I've got some questions about wiring/switch for the stove but I'll add that to Steven's @peaman thread on that subject.
And Brian @bsangs , we've also got mismatched switches to keep me in search of zen balance. At least ours are all the same style. And we have a couple lights out. I bought some replacements but haven't got them in yet. Not a style match there either, though.

 

[bsangs]

Thanks guys. I think we're going to be good for panel space for now. The old (black) accessory switch here was for the old radar. We don't have a fridge so that's free. I should be on the lookout for a switch for that last empty slot so we'll have one if we need it. A full electric rebuild is probably a couple years in our future.
View attachment 49344
I've got some questions about wiring/switch for the stove but I'll add that to Steven's @peaman thread on that subject.
And Brian @bsangs , we've also got mismatched switches to keep me in search of zen balance. At least ours are all the same style. And we have a couple lights out. I bought some replacements but haven't got them in yet. Not a style match there either, though.

What the hell? We have the same boat! Sure did change direction on the panel appearance between hulls 192 and 238.

 

[peaman]

@peaman, you may want to check your network to make sure you aren't making the same mistake. Like mine, you may not see any affect now, but it could start loosing data if/when you start adding additional equipment to the network.

I know I don't have extra resistors in my combined SeatalkNG and NMEA 2000 networks, because the cable which joins the two networks replaces a terminating resistor from each of those nets. If I remove the connector cable, I replace it with a resistor on each net, so I think it is setup okay. Only question concerns "gendering", if that's the right word. The N2K cabling and connectors all have a male fitting on one end, and a female on the other. In contrast, the SeatalkNG cables have the same gender on each end. It seems that the N2K network needs to be connected with a consistent "direction", and I don't know if the "direction" of my Seatalk network is compatible with the "direction" of my N2K network.

In any case, everything seems to work fine except that my B&G 7" Zeus MFD does not recognize my Raymarine wheel pilot. It does, however, recognize the Raymarine electronic compass, so the networks are communicating.

 

[Nick J]

"because the cable which joins the two networks replaces a terminating resistor from each of those nets." - yes, that makes sense. You can always test it with a multimeter by getting the resistance between CAN HI (PIN 4) and CAN LOW (PIN 5). You're looking for 60 ohms.

• open or high = no resistors
• 120 = 1 resistor missing
• 60 = Perfect
• 40 = 1 too many resistors
• 30 = 2 too many resistors

I think "gendering" is just a function of the physical connector. as long as your aren't cutting the ends off cables and putting your own connectors on, you should be fine. If there was a wiring issue, I don't think it would work at all, so you're probably good to go.

 

[windblown]

In any case, everything seems to work fine except that my B&G 7" Zeus MFD does not recognize my Raymarine wheel pilot. It does, however, recognize the Raymarine electronic compass, so the networks are communicating.

If you ever get your Zeus to recognize you Raymarine autopilot, please start a new thread. Several of us would be very excited.