Lucky that unfused wire at battery didn’t start a fire

southofvictor

Member III
Blogs Author
Thought I’d post these pics as we are replacing our galvanic isolator that died earlier this year. It had been installed without a fuse on the 12V wire to the battery. When the isolator died it looks like it shorted the battery wire and could have easily caused a fire - actually really lucky it didn’t. Not sure if the newer “fail safe” style isolators keep from shorting when they die but either way having unfused wires at the battery seems like a pretty bad idea.

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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
A standard galvanic isolator circuit needs no power, it would only install inline with the ac ground from shore power. I use this one: https://yandina.com/products/50-amp-galvanic-isolator
I monitor it manually with a voltmeter.
I have a different brand, but the simple wiring hookup is the same. i.e. across the green wire.

Edit: your device shows an output wire to a Remote Indicator; where is this located?
 
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Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Fuses are indeed your friend but after an event like this it is extremely important to inspect the adjacent wires. If this crossed other wires or were installed in a bundle it can heat those wires enough to bring their copper to the surface.
 

Felicity

Member I
I bought an E38-200 a year ago, have updated many systems, the batteries and charger are in good shape, I see in my inspection report I have a standard galvanic isolator, but have not tested. I will check it out.
What I have done is replace the 30A input AC shorepower plug with a locking shorepower connector, as there were burn marks on the existing one. We have an AC system that can demand alot of amps when turned on, though very efficent to run, here is plug. My electrician liked the plug very much.
Thanks for highlighting this, one more system to take ownership of.
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
I bought an E38-200 a year ago, have updated many systems, the batteries and charger are in good shape, I see in my inspection report I have a standard galvanic isolator, but have not tested. I will check it out.
What I have done is replace the 30A input AC shorepower plug with a locking shorepower connector, as there were burn marks on the existing one. We have an AC system that can demand alot of amps when turned on, though very efficent to run, here is plug. My electrician liked the plug very much.
Thanks for highlighting this, one more system to take ownership of.
SmartPlugs can be bought direct from the manufacturer and they are a definite improvement in safety.
 

southofvictor

Member III
Blogs Author
We installed a smart plug as well since we had some scorch marks on the existing one when we took possession. Here's the new galvanic isolator. This one just installed across the 120V circuit, didn't have any 12V leads on it. @Tin Kicker adjacent wires inspected and look OK, the 120V bundle from the shore power input was closest to what fried but thankfully also had the heaviest insulation. @Loren Beach if there ever was an indicator it was disconnected before we took possession.

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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I think a broken locking ring contributed to the scorching of my ancient shore power connection. Replaced with SmartPlug a few years ago.

 

Mr. Scarlett

Member III
This is from a powerboat near me. Pretty scary when it's that close. I witnessed a marina fire around four years ago and that was enough.
I installed a SmartPlug on the last boat, and the one I'm putting on the Ericson just arrived yesterday!
 

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Felicity

Member I
I think a broken locking ring contributed to the scorching of my ancient shore power connection. Replaced with SmartPlug a few years ago.

This safety checklist is pretty interesting. I had not thought of the sparking potential of cordless power tools. For us Propane tanks are in vented chamber, and dinghy motor gasoline is in container strapped to foredeck, so away from possibly seeping into bilge, but its good to be aware of all that can ’spark’ on a boat given different fuel types on board.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Yep. Here's an excerpt of some interest from that WM link:

The shore power cable and connection is the most easily overloaded point of wiring on the boat because it feeds all of the AC system including receptacle circuits. Every new appliance brought onboard can add a new load, and devices like electric grills, hair driers, air conditioners and space heaters are designed to use about 12 Amps each. It is easy to turn on more than the rated capacity of your system, and the circuit breaker system will not trip until your overload is at about 130 percent or more. In this condition, a weak connection between plug and receptacle can become a fire source.
 
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