Ignition Switch Question

[Bolo]

Looking for help from the more electronic savvy members. The original ignition switch (on my E32-3) was a key switch type. Because it's down near the deck and easily kicked or stepped on the key was bent a few times. So I switched (no pun intended) to a push pull type but I've sometimes found that the switch is pushed in when the engine was running, essentially turning the ignition off which I understand is not desirable when the diesel is running. So I found a rotary (non-key) switch on Amazon (which also has a LED light built into the knob) that I think will solve the problem of feet turning off the switch or damaging a key. (FYI - Since my existing setup is keyless and I can turn off all power to the engine panel by switching it off at a second battery switch inside the cabin. This and another battery switch, connected to the house batteries allows use of just the starter battery to start the engine or include all or just one of the house batteries. It's a bit much to cover here. These modifications were made by a previous owner and they work very well. In short, I can stop power to the engine panel so no one can start the boat without access to the inside of the cabin which would be locked up when I'm not there.)

Back to the new rotary switch. It's rated 220 volts at .5 amps. My question is, can this switch be used for an ignition switch at 12 volts? As far as I can figure the rating a 12 volts would be a little over 9 amps but then I'm "electronics challenged" sometimes and not sure if my calculations or ideas are correct.

 

[shard7]

Volts and amps (current) are two separate things. Any 12v (or higher) switch is fine voltage wise.

Current is the thing to be concerned about here. If the current flowing through a switch is higher than what it is rated for, it will heat up significantly and the contacts will have a shortened life. 9 amps going through a 0.5 amp rated switch is very bad as the current will be 18 times the rating, and heat build up in the switch will 18x18 (324) times what the switch was designed to handle.

As a general rule of thumb, pick a switch whose rating is at least 125% of the maximum current that will flow through it. Higher is fine, but lower is not good.

Hope this helps.

 

[peaman]

It's rated 220 volts at .5 amps.

Switches are rated for voltage, and also for current. The switch is good for only .5 amps even at 12V. I think that while the proposed switch is for industrial use, it is intended for use in relay circuits where the relays themselves do the heavy lifting.

The service manual for my M-25XPB shows a 20A circuit breaker between the battery and the ignition switch, so you probably need to be looking for a switch rated for minimum 12V and 20A. If the pictured switch was rated for 220V and 20A, it would be fine, but even if 220V and 10A, it should not be relied upon.

 

[Bolo]

Thanks all, I did have my suspicions that was the answer. I’ll probably put the old key switch back in with the key chain which always tripped people up that low to the deck.

 

[peaman]

Since we have the same boat, I would consider simply moving the switch you have. Possibly even into the adjacent locker. That would get it out of foot range, give it weather protection, and yet keep it within easy reach. In my own case, there is some clear space directly above my engine control panel, which might be a good location.

 

[Tin Kicker]

In Amazon try the following:
keyless ignition switch 12v

 

[Bolo]

Since we have the same boat, I would consider simply moving the switch you have. Possibly even into the adjacent locker. That would get it out of foot range, give it weather protection, and yet keep it within easy reach. In my own case, there is some clear space directly above my engine control panel, which might be a good location.

I was also considering that move too.

 

[Kenneth K]

A useful tip, if you happen to find yourself redoing your Universal engine panel one day, is to flip the panel upside down. This puts the gauges at the bottom of the panel (for better visibility) and the switches at the top (for better protection).

I did this on my panel, but still moved the ignition switch off the panel to make room for other devices.

 

[Christian Williams]

Me, too. And a plastic cover can be fitted, which keeps feet from kicking the panel.

E381 - Inverting the Cockpit Panel for Visibility, Thelonious II

Sailboat Cockpit panel wiring and visibility Ericson Yachts Christian Williams Thelonious II

ericsonyachts.org

 

[G Kiba]

A previous owner of my boat moved the entire panel to a location that made better sense in terms of access and readability. I did have to re-construct a new longer harness to remove the splices from the wires that were not long enough for the change. Al least that gave me a reason to remove the trailer connectors. The simple sunbrella cover keeps the sun off the panel. The original location was converted to a storage combing which I just completed making a (push to open latch) door from starboard and plastic hinge material. A great place for cell phones!

 

[Christian Williams]

That would be a big improvement for me. The E381 is a difficult bend. Back-panel access is good in the lazarette, but doesn't make up for the awkward location. I don't think the coaming is deep enough to make that move on my model.

 

[Loren Beach]

If it's of any help, here is our solution to protecting the panel:

O34 - UV & Rain Protection for the Engine Panel

We just added a rain and UV cover for the instrument panel. ** Refer to Prior blog entry : 8-3-18. :cool: This canvas was made by the guy that did our recent dodger and used the same color and trim scheme. He does very good work. I gave him a...

ericsonyachts.org

O34 - New panel cover for engine gauges

The new engine panel fits differently than the old Universal one with its recessed gauge and switch molding. There was never any plan to reuse the old panel even if we had chosen to repair the old engine -- wiring harness was shot and all the...

ericsonyachts.org

Note also that I cut away the edge of the seat hatch, which makes the panel gauges easier to see. Having helmed an Ericson 32 and a 33, that little mod. might work on their seat hatch, also. Maybe.

 

[G Kiba]

I didn't know the E38 had the same visibility problems as the O34. Another owner of an O34 (Frank N) on this forum had a bezel made at TAP plastic that bolts in place and brings the panel forward about and inch and tilts it at an angle where it is readable. A relatively simple and really good solution that I have seen done on a few O34s. Maybe Frank will chime in and share his drawings.

 

[bigd14]

Here is my over-engineered solution to this issue. Luckily I only have the fuel gauge, voltmeter and hour meter on the engine panel because a clever previous owner very conveniently put the tachometer, temp gauge and oil pressure gauge under the bridge deck. This means I rarely have to look at the panel underway.

E30-3 - New Engine Panel Fabrication Part I

The boat came to me with a series of switches and buttons installed in holes in the cockpit wall leaving them exposed to water. The original engine panel had been removed and replaced with a sheet of stainless steel with a speaker in the middle...

ericsonyachts.org

E30-3 - New Engine Panel Fabrication Part II

Once the mold was built up, I added thickened epoxy fillets, then coated the whole thing with epoxy and sanded it flat. Then I coated it with about 15 coats of mold release wax, which was 10 more than needed, and taped off all other surfaces...

ericsonyachts.org

E30-3 - New Engine Panel Fabrication Part III

This time I used thickened epoxy on all the edges and let the first course cure before adding the reinforcing layers of biax. This turned out way better with much fewer voids. Try #2 I filled the voids and spent hours sanding it flush. Then I...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[G Kiba]

Here is my over-engineered solution to this issue. Luckily I only have the fuel gauge, voltmeter and hour meter on the engine panel because a clever previous owner very conveniently put the tachometer, temp gauge and oil pressure gauge under the bridge deck. This means I rarely have to look at the panel underway.

View attachment 47900

E30-3 - New Engine Panel Fabrication Part I

The boat came to me with a series of switches and buttons installed in holes in the cockpit wall leaving them exposed to water. The original engine panel had been removed and replaced with a sheet of stainless steel with a speaker in the middle...

ericsonyachts.org

E30-3 - New Engine Panel Fabrication Part II

Once the mold was built up, I added thickened epoxy fillets, then coated the whole thing with epoxy and sanded it flat. Then I coated it with about 15 coats of mold release wax, which was 10 more than needed, and taped off all other surfaces...

ericsonyachts.org

E30-3 - New Engine Panel Fabrication Part III

This time I used thickened epoxy on all the edges and let the first course cure before adding the reinforcing layers of biax. This turned out way better with much fewer voids. Try #2 I filled the voids and spent hours sanding it flush. Then I...

ericsonyachts.org

Impressive glass work!