Help needed to visually identify some engine (M40) parts

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dxulander

Member I
It'll be almost 1 year since owning the boat, basically when I got her all of these didn't work (cables disconnected, etc):
- tach
- water temp
- amp meter
- oil
- engine hour

Only thing that worked was the key, glow switch, start. As of last weekend, I'm through the instrument panel/cockpit side of the wiring, and I think I know how everything should work (will upload pics in separate thread https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/thread...rting-w-engine-instruments.20233/#post-160004).

So the cockpit side of wiring, I think I'm good, replaced w/ new wires, new hardware, now it's time to dive deep into the engine bay. Help needed just to figure out what these things are. I've gone through the various Westerbeke manuals for M40, M40_parts_list, M40_technical-man, M50_operator_man, etc, and some of the forum posts. Can't seem to come up w/ what these things are even called, much less what they do, most have disconnected cable connectors.

First up, this is under the air filter, close to the glowplugs. Wires disconnected, no idea what this is and can't find it on the parts list.
M40-9-5-A.png

Second up, instead of the "Oil Pressure Sender https://shop.toadmarinesupply.com/ships_store/?p=details&mfc=Universal&sku=299964&sectionid=5171", I seem to have a hose connected to something mounted on the wall, again, wires disconnected, anyone know what that's called even?
M40-9-5-B.png

Finally, what does this look like:
M40-9-5-C.png
 
peaman

peaman

Sustaining Member
dxulander said:
Finally, what does this look like:
Click to expand...
That looks like a solenoid switch. The switch is between the terminal with the green wire, and the unseen terminal on the opposite (top) side. When 12V is applied to the two other visible terminals, the switch will be "made", the contacts will be connected. Follow the connected wiring to verify that this makes sense.
 
P

paul culver

Member III
bigd14 said:
Might just be a remote oil pressure sender. Bet you could remove it and install a new one on the engine.
Click to expand...
Part 29, if its an oil pressure sender, should have a wire attached instead of a tube. If you have a mechanical oil pressure gauge instead of an electrical one then a tube from the block would connect to the back of the gauge. Conversely, an electrical pressure gauge will have a wire connected to the back of it. Which situation do you have?
 
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G Kiba

Sustaining Member
Solenoid switch could be for the starter or glow plugs. Both require a higher amperage to operate but controlled (on/off) with a lower amperage and smaller wire led to the control panel. My control panel use to have a 10 gauge wire that was 10' long for the glow plugs. A previous owner installed a solenoid but left the heavy wire to operate it. I replaced it with a 14 gauge wire.
 
D

dxulander

Member I
peaman said:
That looks like a solenoid switch. The switch is between the terminal with the green wire, and the unseen terminal on the opposite (top) side. When 12V is applied to the two other visible terminals, the switch will be "made", the contacts will be connected. Follow the connected wiring to verify that this makes sense.
Click to expand...
G Kiba said:
Solenoid switch could be for the starter or glow plugs. Both require a higher amperage to operate but controlled (on/off) with a lower amperage and smaller wire led to the control panel. My control panel use to have a 10 gauge wire that was 10' long for the glow plugs. A previous owner installed a solenoid but left the heavy wire to operate it. I replaced it with a 14 gauge wire.
Click to expand...
I got the mechanism figured out after going deeper into the technical manual of the Starter section. Only question remains is the sizing of the wires of the ends of the solenoid, "green" wire is connected to the "pull-in coil" in the starter, but doesn't mention anything about the current draw there. The starter mentions overall 90A to crank, which I assume is the "big" connector on the starter. Just a bit annoyed on the 2 ends of the solenoid to "excite" the starter have vastly different gauges.
 
D

dxulander

Member I
paul culver said:
Part 29, if its an oil pressure sender, should have a wire attached instead of a tube. If you have a mechanical oil pressure gauge instead of an electrical one then a tube from the block would connect to the back of the gauge. Conversely, an electrical pressure gauge will have a wire connected to the back of it. Which situation do you have?
Click to expand...
I don't have an oil pressure gauge in the instrument panel, only an alarm that's been disconnected, and oil lights also disconnected. I think what I have is an non-functional version of Kenneth's upgrade https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/ubs/adding-an-oil-pressure-manifold-and-gauge.763/ which motivates me enough to make simple variation of that.
 
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