Cutlass bearing set screw?

[NW26]

I’m going to be doing a cutlass bearing r&r. From my research it seems there should be an allen head set screw holding the bearing in. I picked away the bottom coating from what I thought would be said set screw but there’s no allen head or screwdriver feature on the set screw. Should I just drill it out and tap new threads in when reinstalling?

 

[toddster]

Is there a screw in there at all?

 

[NW26]

Is there a screw in there at all?

Maybe you’re right. We might be looking at the bearing itself??

 

[Dave G.]

What model/year do you have ?

 

[NW26]

‘87 26-3

 

[Pete the Cat]

Looks to me like someone blooged the allen head screw. Been there done that. Easy fix. If you are changing the cutless bearing I would just drill it out, tap some new threads and put a new set screw in the new bearing. I would make sure I bedded it with some breakable Locktite or some good sealant for the next guy. I have had cutless bearings last 3000 hours--what wears them out????.

 

[Loren Beach]

what wears them out

Here in the Columbia River, very fine glacial silt. Wears out the inside of raw water pump housings, also. Takes quite a bit of time, but it is abrasive. I would imagine that other areas have silty or sandy water, also.

 

[toddster]

Should be able to caliper the thickness of the strut cylinder at the end. Transfer caliper to the hole, if it’s the same, that’s the back of the bearing sleeve.

There are no set screws in mine (though it’s obviously an after-market part). Friction holds bearings in place. That’s why it’s a PITA to change them.

 

[Lone Gull]

Hi Guys, We have a 1985 32-3 that I'm trying to change out the cutlass bearing and for the life of me I can't get it to move. I've sanded the strut bright looking for a set screw but nothing shows. Any suggestions how I should proceed? I have a cutlass bearing press/puller and have tried a little heat hoping to expand the strut to no avail.

 

[Dave G.]

Most likely NO set screw to be found. Not sure what press/puller you have but if it hasn't been changed in a long while it will be stubborn. Keep applying the heat and crank on the puller & t will eventually "pop" loose.

 

[Lone Gull]

so you think heat is okay? I was a little hesitant. Thanks for the input.

 

[Dave G.]

Yes heat is ok within reason. If you start smelling rubber burning best to slow on the heat a bit. I presume you are trying to do this with the shaft still in ? If shaft is out you can use other methods.

 

[Lone Gull]

Yes, shaft is still in. I'm off to work more on it right now and will let you know how it goes.

 

[Pete the Cat]

Heat won't make it come out if you have a plunged set screw that needs to be drilled out. Even then, it can be a challenge. I have done a few of them and had good luck, but that is not always the case. I made a removal tool out of some split metal conduit threaded stock, a drilled metal plate and nuts. I was able to remove one just by hammering on a split piece of conduit against the bearing metal from the hull side. You likely need some shock and pressure to dislodge it. Easiest for really stuck ones is to remove the shaft and saw the old bearing in half. They can become really difficult to remove. There are commercial tools for pressing them out that most boatyards use, but even they often find this job challenging. I had one done by a good boatyard just last year and they ended up not having a choice but removing the shaft and sawing it out because some idiot had bungled the last replacement. Like of lot of jobs on a boat, this one can grow in complexity (opportunity?) for preventive maintenance on stuffing box and checking the facings and alignment. Good luck.

 

[Kenneth K]

There is no set screw on my '85 32-3.

New bearing:

Yard tried to press out the old bearing last year (with the prop shaft in place) but was unable to do so. They said the bearing was "deforming" before budging so they had to pull drop the rudder and pull the shaft to replace the cutlass/cutless. I also had the prop shaft shortened once it was out.

Before: After:

 

[Dave G.]

I borrowed a Strut Pro from a local yard. Heated the strut for about 2 minutes and started cranking on tool and then "pop" it broke loose. Once it was free it came out pretty easy.

 

[Pete the Cat]

I borrowed a Strut Pro from a local yard. Heated the strut for about 2 minutes and started cranking on tool and then "pop" it broke loose. Once it was free it came out pretty easy.

You are very lucky in my experience. You probably have fresh water corrosion only on the two surfaces (even if the bearing is bronze it is unlikely to be a perfect match for the bronze in the strut--this is an argument for using some silicone or other sealant and threading some set screws so the next guy can change it out without a big production). Also, you have a yard that would actually lend you a tool. Also, it appears that some Ericsons (my 32-200 is an example) allow you to remove the shaft without removing the rudder, while other models do not. Like removing and, like checking your heat exchanger--, this is one of those things that often is only attended when the surveyor, yard or if it becomes obnoxious.

 

[Dave G.]

Also, it appears that some Ericsons (my 32-200 is an example) allow you to remove the shaft without removing the rudder

I thought(hoped) without the bearing my shaft might come out past the rudder, alas it missed by about a 1/4". So ended up dropping the rudder to get it out. Yes freshwater (Lake Michigan) & Lone Gull is about 100 or so miles north of me.

 

[Pete the Cat]

I thought(hoped) without the bearing my shaft might come out past the rudder, alas it missed by about a 1/4". So ended up dropping the rudder to get it out. Yes freshwater (Lake Michigan) & Lone Gull is about 100 or so miles north of me.

I grew up in Western Michigan (Fremont) and Ludington was where I got the idea about sailing.

 

[Dave G.]

I grew up in Western Michigan (Fremont) and Ludington was where I got the idea about sailing.

Yeah really great sailing here, only problem is old man winter every damn year ! But I usually sail deep into October, the lake is warm in the fall so even if it's pretty chilly on land the water temp will keep you warm.