Best Line for Traveler

[Touchrain]

I’m replacing line on the old Harken traveler on our E38. Max 3/8”. What do folks recommend these days?

 

[ConchyDug]

Depends, Sta-set if you wanna save money. MLX is pretty good low stretch dyneema core that won't break the bank and is easy to splice. Endura braid is like SK78 or SK99 but it's pricey. I like the dyneema cored stuff because they are easier to splice.

 

[Christian Williams]

5/16th for me.

 

[Touchrain]

5/16th for me.

What line do you use, Christian. I’m looking at loads now, as well as handling. Not getting any younger.

 

[Christian Williams]

Just 5/16th double braid off the rack at WM. There's very little load on my restored traveler, and a loop at the end of the lines makes hauling the car uphill easy most of the time.

 

[Touchrain]

Just 5/16th double braid off the rack at WM. There's very little load on my restored traveler, and a loop at the end of the lines makes hauling the car uphill easy.

 

[Touchrain]

Thanks. I have a 25+ year-old Harken 4:1. I’m replacing bearings and line.

 

[Touchrain]

Depends, Sta-set if you wanna save money. MLX is pretty good low stretch dyneema core that won't break the bank and is easy to splice. Endura braid is like SK78 or SK99 but it's pricey. I like the dyneema cored stuff because they are easier to splice.

Thanks. I’d like a little stretch to absorb shocks.

 

[driftless]

Thanks. I’d like a little stretch to absorb shocks.

I had a retired dynamic climbing rope (~9.5mm) in good shape that I repurposed to my traveler for exactly this reason. I think it's one place in the running rigging where a lot of line stretch makes sense. The traveler eases itself in gusts. Shock loads should be even less during gybes. Nice on the hands too.

 

[bsangs]

Am replacing frayed traveler lines with some 5/16 double braid, and was wondering if there's any benefit to splicing the end that connects to the traveler? Current setup has a simple knot, which works perfectly well. Wondering what this crowd prefers.

 

[ConchyDug]

The splice bury on double braid makes the line too stiff and would make it a little harder to adjust on the outer edges of the track. A stopper knot works best as a bowline takes up usable space. Can also run the line continuous so both ends are adjustable from one location.

 

[bsangs]

The splice bury on double braid makes the line too stiff and would make it a little harder to adjust on the outer edges of the track. A stopper knot works best as a bowline takes up usable space. Can also run the line continuous so both ends are adjustable from one location.

Thanks very much. Stopper knot it is. (Not looking to reinvent the wheel though, so am going to keep it with two lines, since that's how it's set up now, and it works just fine for how we use the traveler.)

 

[ConchyDug]

Also putting a swivel snapshackle on the end of the mainsheet where it attaches to the becket on the mainsheet to traveller block keeps the mainsheet from twisting up. I see this a lot on boats walking the docks, just another trick since you are working in the area.

 

[Touchrain]

Splice is a lot stronger than a knot, but may not matter given the load at that point.

 

[bsangs]

Thanks for this thread. Traveler line replacement went well. Cut it with a heat knife, whipped the ends, then wrapped them in some rigging tape. Cleaned and lubed the traveler, replaced the worn cotter rings, then secured the lines with buntline hitches. All things I never envisioned myself doing a year ago at this time before owning a boat. Been quite a learning year, and this place has been a great resource. (Yes, I realize I need to sew that zipper before the season starts. Also, just for orientation purposes, the dodger is tilted forward, and the Lewmar hatch openings are covered with blue tarp, because they're both out being replaced. She's shrink-wrapped for the winter while still in the water.)