Another Ericson 35-2 Rudder Thread

Michael Paul

Member I
I removed my rudder last night with plans to extend it and reshape it to the cal 40 rudder. Upon removal, I noticed a few things.

The only piece acting as a stop against the rudder falling out is the rudder cap where the tiller can attach. There is no sacrificial washer or bearing in place. The cockpit mount rides directly against the tiller cap. Mine appears to be slightly off and has worn a groove in the upper portion of the cockpit mount, only about 1/8th of an inch. Is this normal/any fixes for less resistance?

There are metal bars between the cockpit floor and the hull of the boat where the steering blocks attach. These are rusted completely where they attach to the hull. What is their purpose? There are also metal bars between the steering block mounts that look like tabs for glassing into the hull. They are also rusted out. I plan to remove the steering block framing and rebed it into the hull. I would remove these flimsy and loose bars between the two. I'll attach pictures at the end.

The rudder is very tight and has no wobble in its post. I plan to add a zerk fitting like many others and inject grease into the rudder post. What material do I use as a gasket between the rudder post and the shaft? Same as a stuffing box? Nothing more modern?

When I add length to the rudder do I also need to stiffen up other structures of the boat? Should I stiffen up the cockpit floor by glassing in layers of coosa or g10 underneath as backing for the 4 bolts? Does the rudder post need 4 triangular supports glassed to it and the hull?

What else should I be doing while its out?
 

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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
That model had a long production run, so it might help to know what year yours is.
You can help others to help you by putting in a signature line with boat year and model, engine, and sailing area.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I ask because on many later models, it is the quadrant that keeps the rudder from "falling out." On my boats the quadrant sits on top of the bronze packing gland on the rudder tube, atop a Delrin washer. The quadrant is through-bolted to the rudder post.

Might be quite different on your model.
 

Michael Paul

Member I
My quadrant is also through bolted, but at least an inch or more above the packing gland. I guess it wouldn't hurt to have a washer made so that it had support there and at the top in the cockpit.

Has anyone successfully lengthened their rudder, moved the leading edge forward and shaped an elliptical trailing edge? Foss foam and the Cali based company are quoting me at 4000 + shipping.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
The final pictures in this thread might provide inspiration.
 

p.gazibara

Member III
My boat had a bulkhead added to stiffen not only the rudder tube, but also the hull relative to the cockpit sole. I believe it’s 3/4” and tabbed to the hull/cockpit sole aft of the rudder tube. PO said the cockpit sole flexed too much to keep the rudder in alignment when driven hard.
 

Mr. Scarlett

Member III
For others that have had a new rudder built - do you normally bring the old and new rudder to a machine shop to have the stock machined/drilled? What does a new rudder cost to ship?
 

gareth harris

Sustaining Member
My boat had a bulkhead added to stiffen not only the rudder tube, but also the hull relative to the cockpit sole. I believe it’s 3/4” and tabbed to the hull/cockpit sole aft of the rudder tube. PO said the cockpit sole flexed too much to keep the rudder in alignment when driven hard.
Does that run across the entire hull or is it glassed to the back of the locker (starboard) and quarter berth?

It sounds like interesting addition, although I wonder how rotten the balsa around the rudder was.

Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972
 
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