Alternator Bracket, Universal Diesel 5432

[mrojec]

Happy 4th of July ( and Canada Day) weekend to all! The 1984 E35-3 I’m working on needs a new alternator. The engine is a Universal 5432. We tried to remove the alternator, but in so doing the mounting bolts sheared off. The bolt on the slide arm was no problem since the arm itself came off easily. The lower swivel bolt is a different story. It’s frozen in the hole through the alternator. I’m reluctant to hammer it out for fear of breaking the tabs on the mounting bracket. The bracket looks like it’s attached to the engine block with 2 bolts. Is it possible to remove the bracket from the engine? On the parts diagram it looks like there’s a coolant passage underneath it. I don’t want to remove it and have coolant gushing all over the place. Does anyone have experience with this? Any information is greatly appreciated.
Mark

 

[Kenneth K]

Different engine, but maybe some similarities: On the M-25 (which originally had a similar alternator attachment point--later changed), that part of the engine that held the alternator bracket was the gear case, not the block. The engine block has coolant passages built throughout its insides, but the gearcase just holds oil.



You are right to use caution against hammering against the gear case (if that's what it is). Unlike the block, it is aluminum and not steel. Cracking of the gear case was the reason M-25s had to abandon their original alternator mounting points.

More here (though, again, it's for M-25s): https://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_alternator_bracket

 

[Alan Gomes]

Yes, this does look as though your alternator mounts to the timing gear case. You should definitely look at the link Ken helpfully posted for you. That original bracket was a disaster waiting to happen. If you break the gear case it may be difficult to impossible to find a replacement.

Consider it a blessing that this issue came up and has provided the occasion to deal with that faulty bracket.

 

[Christian Williams]

This is a 5432. Looks like your pivot bolt head sheared off.

Will the pivot bolt bracket come off the engine? Looks like it might. If not, I'd use the usual tricks to get the bolt out, drift pin, PB Blaster. Is there a nut on the other end, or is the bolt tapped into the bracket?

I'll be at the boat tomorrow and take a look at my assembly.

...

 

[Kenneth K]

Consider it a blessing that this issue came up and has provided the occasion to deal with that faulty bracket.

Alan, the faulty alternator bracket was an M-25 issue. The bracket on the 5432 is of different construction, so I don't think it suffers the same problem.

 

[Alan Gomes]

Alan, the faulty alternator bracket was an M-25 issue. The bracket on the 5432 is of different construction, so I don't think it suffers the same problem.

You may be right, Ken. Still, it would be worth looking into. The timing cover is a cast piece and is not particularly strong. The alternator bracket appears to be mounted to it in some way, though perhaps there is more to it than what is evident from the photo. Still, we know that Universal/Kubota messed up big-time on the M25, so it may be that they did also on the 5432. Just something important to examine, I'd say.

 

[mrojec]

Thanks for the replies. Christian’s arrangement looks identical to ours. Since the pivot bolt moves in the bracket but is basically welded to the alternator we’ve decided to try and cut the bolt where the alternator and the bracket meet, given the fragility of the bracket. We’re not keen on removing the bracket to do this because we don’t have a replacement gasket.
Mark

 

[gengel]

The bracket is installed over a water passage to provide heat transfer. Auto supply fiber gasket paper and some gasket seal is fine for reinstallation. It is better to drain some coolant and remove the 2 bolts and the plate so that you can address it on the workbench. If you start cutting between the bracket and the alternator case you will ruin the face of the bracket and subsequently the alignment. On the bench you can drill the bolt shaft deep enough to use an extractor, after soaking in penetrating oil for a couple of days and warming the alternator housing with a heat gun.

 

[ConchyDug]

I just did this job on a 5432 when switching to an appropriately sized alternator, the pivot bolt for the alternator adjustment bracket is milled into a coolant passage, when it's removed some coolant will come out. I can't remember if the alternator bracket bolts intersect with a coolant passage or not but I didn't have a gasket there and coolant didn't come out but I'm not 100% on that. When trying to loosen the bolts on the bracket don't go ham on them mine came off pretty easily without a lot of torque applied. I'd use penetrating fluid on the bracket bolts if they seem stubborn and remove the bracket, it's cast aluminum(fragileeeee), then throw it in a press only if you can verify the alternator pivot is shimmed properly between the tangs or you could bend them too much and crack it while pressing the bolt out. Might need heat as plan C with a good heat gun or small torch. When you put it all back together use a high temp grease for the bolts so it comes apart in the future. These aren't critical torques like head bolts so tighten until you get a sharp rise in torque then maybe half a flat.

Since pictures are worth a couple words or whatever here are before and after of the bracket.

 

[Christian Williams]

Conchy, see if I have this right:

Bolt "A" goes through a coolant passage? (shown in your first photo).

Bolt "B", one of two, seems to connect the bracket to the block. (So what's bolt "A" for?)

Under the belt in my picture is the alternator pivot bolt, yes?



Your new (or cleaned up) bracket seem to have a pivot bolt with a spacer. Is that proprietary to your new alternator?

Despite studying my own bracket I'm having trouble visualizing how it works.

 

[ConchyDug]

A- Is the bolt I found that when removed leaks a little coolant.

B- I think is one of the bolts that holds the accessory cover onto the front of the engine.

C- You got it that's the pivot bolt. The spacer came with 100A Balmar alternator I installed to replace the 125A belt flayer that was installed. I also added a washer behind the spacer so there would be no axial play.

D- Is where the 2 bolts are that hold the bracket on. When the bracket is removed it'll have a recess where you can see the casting where bolt B passes.

 

[mrojec]

Just a follow up to our particular issue: I was able to remove the old alternator by cutting the pivot bolt between the mounting bracket on the engine and the alternator body using a small hacksaw, patience, and perseverance. I may have etched an inner face of the mounting bracket in the process but I seriously doubt that will have any effect on the alignment or the function of the unit. Nonetheless, I’ll post any problems we have with it. Right now we‘re puzzling over the wiring. Turns out the picture we took isn’t nearly as good as an old fashioned drawing.