Looks like it hit a dock pretty hard. Deck joint is separated too. Plan is to smooth the deck joint, fill with structural putty and fiberglass inside and out.Pictures would be helpful.
Yes, interior of hull/deck joint is glassed from the factory, if damaged then your glass work should be inside and out. The inside is accessible through panels above shelving above settees. On my '72 there is an aluminum extrusion with rubber insert rub rail that covers the exterior of joint so doesn't have to be pretty, just solid. With that thought, as Reginald says, dig out as much as needed to get to solid material before filling to ensure proper bonding for entire length of crack/rot.Check the interior for evidence of leaking through the damage.
Thank you all for your help, I’ll keep y’all updatedYes, interior of hull/deck joint is glassed from the factory, if damaged then your glass work should be inside and out. The inside is accessible through panels above shelving above settees. On my '72 there is an aluminum extrusion with rubber insert rub rail that covers the exterior of joint so doesn't have to be pretty, just solid. With that thought, as Reginald says, dig out as much as needed to get to solid material before filling to ensure proper bonding for entire length of crack/rot.
Cheers!
That you mark,Welcome dansgiles,
There should be no wood to rot in the deck to hull joint on your E27. Is there rubrail on the boat anywhere?
Regarding headsail track you might want to add an inner track and maybe just use a short track aft on the "toe rail". I installed an inner track to use with a 135% and 110% headsail and it works better than the track on the toe rail, tighter sheeting angle. The outer track is now used for spinnaker sheeting only and I could get away with no track and just a fixed sheeting block for the asymmetrical.
I have still not found a good tape that seals the other side from leaking! The only thing that seems to work is A Lot of Tape! I will have to try your tissue method.Good move Grant. I oversized the track fastener holes, filled with epoxy and redrilled to the correct size for the track bolts. I learned from another project that you cannot just drill through the deck to the inside of the cabin, tape and fill with epoxy. Probably pretty obvious to most but the inner liner is not bonded to the deck, there is a space between. After pouring way too much epoxy into a hole I was trying to fill I looked down below and found epoxy dripping out of a hole far from the hole I was filling. Since then my approach has been to make little dams with tissue paper to keep the epoxy in the area of the hole. Its finicky but usually works. Grants method of cutting larger plug holes is much better .
Thank you! Is there a formula or measurement for placing it at the correct angle?Here are a couple of photos from the outside of the boat View attachment 49408View attachment 49409
I’ll try to remember to take some photos from inside. This with a 110% jib.
Got one side sanded flush, ground out all cracks, loose putty and holes. Filled with putty and fiberglassed over with two layers of tape. Bow section was pretty much held together by the chainplate, looks like a poor repair job that tried to lay the fiberglass overtop paint. Interior is going to get at least 3 layers of fiberglassIf you go smooth things out and apply epoxy route think it’s standard crack repair procedure to drill into the beginning/end of the crack and grind out the body of the crack. exposing fresh material the whole length then fill in - so the crack doesn’t reappear and spread.
I’d be mostly concerned about the hull to deck integrity but it may be fine if filled and glassed over.
Good luck!
So much grinding, days upon days of stripping down on the front porch before entering. I agree with you, it looks much better alreadySorry I don't come around here much, so I am a little late.
Since it was in bad shape, and I couldn't find a suitable replacement.
I removed the rub rail from my Ericson 25 mk1 last year, grinding it all off a section at a time. Glassing it over with 4+ layers.
Smoothed it out.
Swore I would never do it again.
Before doing all this work my boat had waterfalls coming down the walls from the seam during any rain.
It's pretty much dry inside now.
In my opinion it looks much better.
However the anchor line now rubs along the painted surface.
I would definitely put a stainless or aluminum plate around the front cleats next time.
All in all I am very happy with the results, however I still say I wouldn't do it again.