Recent content by vanilladuck

The Verdict is IN: I have a high degree of appreciation to everyone who contributed (and who might contribute further) to this dialog. Thank you so much! There are no wrong answers here among the trade-offs and personal preferences. It was really great to hear from those with different setups...

My inch-worming with the clutches only produces about a foot at best each cycle. Any more than that and I feel like I'm going to invert. For reference: I usually use my spinnaker halyard, which is made from Samson XLS3 10mm double braid poly rope

When I use my ATN mastclimber I anchor the halyard I'm climbing to a chainplate or some other rock solid loop on the deck. Then I crank in some tension on the halyard from a winch. This keeps me moderately stable while climbing/descending. @peaman - It sounds like this may be your process too...

I haven't upgraded mine since installation -- but now I don't wanna! Hope it resolves quickly...

Thanks @bigd14 - I cleaned up the area under the seahood and the stops look pretty good to me. Your reply above makes me think though.. if they are in he way of the G10 discs, I could trim the forward edge of them (since the stop is reliant on the aft edge)

Staging the G10 discs. The same size hole saw will be used to carve a void in the underside of the sea hood of the same thickness as the discs. Then the discs will be epoxied in place and glassed over. Holes will be drilled and tapped in the discs for 3/8" fastener bolts. There should be nothing...

That's awesome - thanks for sharing Bob! I've actually been ideating loosely what opening my own business might look like...

Today the rigger cut out the aluminum plate which was embedded into the sea hood. The through bolts for the cabin top traveler were threaded through the sea hood and the plate. We all know the tale when stainless steel met aluminum. Water had intruded and corrosion had proceeded to the point of...

Unfortunately, not that I know of.. Business name is Covercraft, in Richmond, CA (San Francisco Bay). I believe they may even have a patent or two for their designs

The folks making my dodger like to employ a slotted attachment on the bottom edge of the fabric. It works similar to the luff tape on a furler with the dodger edge being the luff and the fastened and bedded edge on the cabin top being the furler foil. This results in no spray squirting through...

No, the aft lazarette lids on the 32-3 are solid with no perforation Nice solution for covering the hole. Be sure to seal the holes and the circumference with Sikaflex 291 or similar to keep the salt and spray out

Rut roh! My beard might make this problematic :oops:

There is a 1x4 piece of lumber which is glued with super hardened construction adhesive at a ~45° angle facing inboard on each side of the deckhead. It's a centerpiece of headliner attachment as the cloth turns up to create a space for the interior cabin grab rails. I started in with a mallet...

Yea, perhaps Grant is right.. I might have *too* much time on my hands currently. But, it's fun. Labor of love for sure. I bought a Festool Multi-Mode ROTEX RO 90 FEQ-Plus and a dust extractor. The ROTEX has two modes for material removal and final finishing with both round and delta pads...

Honestly, if that's the only part you need, then yes: https://www.westmarine.com/perko-medium-duty-battery-selector-switch-281469.html Save the money for other things on the boat ;)