Recent content by atomic2797

thanks everyone for the replies. exactly the info i needed. not as big of a job as i was expecting, thankfully. my last question is, looking at the connection between the manifold and the flange, it appears there are open water jackets. is this correct? do i need to drain the collant before...

bump. same issue. went to take the boat out today and it severed and was spewing exhaust and water into the engine compartment. whats the best solution here? universal replacement? custom job? any part numbers appreciated.

all good. this is the first time replacing the seal, so once i do the job I'll note the measurements in my maintenance log. the purpose of the post was to see if others had done the job and could provide knowledge. i currently have a PYI dripless seal, just replacing it as its hit the 6 year...

great! that should save a little time not having to drop the rudder. sounds like i'll have to pull the old dripless seal and just take a measurement. thanks for the link and info!

Loren, all valid points. When i do finally get this thing out, i'll post my findings here in hopes it helps others doing the same job.

I'm doing the cutlass bearing too, so the shaft will have to come out. Not sure on rudder removal as this is the first time doing either of these jobs. The marina I'm in forces you to use a contractor for bottom paint so i'm just going to have them do all 3 jobs. I can always wait till its on...

I dont expect a manufacturer to know about modifications obviously, but factory stock sizes for a company that specializes in a particular product in a particular industry? I know when i call up North Sails and tell them what boat i have, they know EXACTLY what the dimensions and spars are that...

I'm replacing my PYI PSS dripless shaft seal on my '88 38-200. Does anyone know the shaft tube size? I talked to PYI and they dont keep a database of boats and sizes (which is a little rediculous if you ask me).

I only have the Port compartment. The middle is solid and starboard opens up to access below. I do like your dual bottle setup though. :)

I've just recently upgraded my stove to propane and have the original Regal CNG system to give away. It is out of am '88 e38-200. It works good and was fully functioning except the electric lighter (prob needs a battery). It comes with the 4-burner stove/oven, hose, regulator and 2 CNG...

fluid? Ive read a few posts that people like Castrol Dextron IV. What type of ATF did you find works the best for you? Full Sythetic or not?

what problem? Went down to do some troubleshooting this weekend and of course the transmission worked perfect while tied up. I know as soon as I take it out it will start acting up again. Haha thanks for the info. I'll keep this post updated as I work through the problem

Hi all, I have an '88 38-200 (Gettin' Knotty) with a M40 motor with <2000 hours and the Hurth HBW-100 transmission. I'm been having what seems like a common issue with my transmission; slippage in forward gear. It shifts between all the gears just fine and reverse works great. It sometimes...

Hi Everyone, I've been a reader of this website for several years. I bought my first Ericson, a 1988 38-200 "Carpe Diem" in May of 2014 from a seller in Long Beach. I've since relocated her to Marina Del Rey. I know this boat came from MDR originally both by the hailing port being painted...

perhaps its paint I also called Buzz Ballenger yesterday and had him overnight a bottle of the Spar Seal out to me. As soon as i got it, I headed over to the boat yard and started applying it. I did a few coats at the masthead without seeing any real improvement. A little disappointed after...